"Nosen Cessna 310 Club"
10-23-2018, 04:26 AM
#1576
The stabilizer is permanently installed now, the garolite tubes are bonded in the tail and the haves along with the aluminum tubes can be removed for storage & transportation. I need to adjust some wood on the stab as there is a bit of mismatch between the glass and the stab. The fillet between the fuse and the stab matches on the bottom side but is out on the top, nothing I cant get cleaned up in the next night or two. I need to installed the hard points in the fuse to fasten the stabs and then I can install the tail cone. The wings are set at 1 degree positive incidence and the stab at 0 degrees. Setting the tail and squaring the wings to the fuse & stab to the wings was not fun, add the removable stab tubes to the equation and its even better!
10-23-2018, 04:41 AM
#1577
Robart Problems
I spent a night playing with my Robart electric retract conversion kits and Im less than happy with them. I was dead out of the box but I managed to pull it apart and get it working.... to get a warranty part I need to pull it apart again, undo the fix, take a picture and submit for warranty or mail it back as is to assess. If I mail it back there wouldnt be any fault to find so whats the point? I was given the option to buy another actuator for half price when its DOA right out of the bag.... I have to say these things are junk, the jackscrew is the problem and its press fit together on a .100 spline, not even TIG welded together.
Given the slightly aggressive customer service approach they took with me I cant say I would consider buying their product again. I purchased directly from them a few days ago, they have the transaction history, explained in great detail the problem and the internal construction of the sealed Jack screw that came apart and wont do anything without pictures. I cant event get a replacement jack screw, only the complete actuator if I pay for half of it! Given the shipping cost back and forth between Canada and the USA its not worth it, especially when customer service states someone is always trying to get something for free ***?
Sorry for for the rant, I cant even explain how displeased I am with their support, $2-$3k in an airplane and I have to deal with this crappy actuator and a less than pleasing customer service approach.
Given the slightly aggressive customer service approach they took with me I cant say I would consider buying their product again. I purchased directly from them a few days ago, they have the transaction history, explained in great detail the problem and the internal construction of the sealed Jack screw that came apart and wont do anything without pictures. I cant event get a replacement jack screw, only the complete actuator if I pay for half of it! Given the shipping cost back and forth between Canada and the USA its not worth it, especially when customer service states someone is always trying to get something for free ***?
Sorry for for the rant, I cant even explain how displeased I am with their support, $2-$3k in an airplane and I have to deal with this crappy actuator and a less than pleasing customer service approach.
Last edited by ken barkhouse; 10-23-2018 at 05:57 AM.
10-23-2018, 04:37 PM
#1578
Thread Starter
I have heard that others have had less than pleasant problems with the electric retract versions that Robart is selling. One of our club members ordered a set for their
Giant Scale Top Flite P-47 and they didn't work out of the box and had some rather disappointing phone conversations with customer service at Robart, finally gave up,
had a machinist friend convert them back to air actuated retracts.
Sorry you are having the problems with Robart, but hey the 310 is looking some kind of awesome, have you picked a color scheme for it as of yet?
Bill D,
Giant Scale Top Flite P-47 and they didn't work out of the box and had some rather disappointing phone conversations with customer service at Robart, finally gave up,
had a machinist friend convert them back to air actuated retracts.
Sorry you are having the problems with Robart, but hey the 310 is looking some kind of awesome, have you picked a color scheme for it as of yet?
Bill D,
10-23-2018, 07:06 PM
#1579
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Regina, SK, CANADA
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I went with Century Jet retracts, electric. With the ability to also operate the doors. And had no problems at all with them. Perhaps you should check them out.
i just did a search for century Jet and did not realize that they are no longer in business . When I had purchased my gear from them they also came with a sequencer for the doors.
i just did a search for century Jet and did not realize that they are no longer in business . When I had purchased my gear from them they also came with a sequencer for the doors.
Last edited by heinzulrich; 10-24-2018 at 09:54 AM. Reason: forgot to add some information
02-21-2019, 05:20 PM
#1580
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Kyneton, AUSTRALIA
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Just received my 310 short kit from Tim at AMA Models. VERY nice kit. Plans are superb, including the reverse image of the wing plan. Laser cutting looks fantastic. Wood quality is great - ply is great, very hard balsa where it needs to be, lighter where it needs to be.
Packaging of the kit was superb too. I had it mailed to an address in LA, an airline friend picked it up there for me and brought it home to Australia. I can recommend this short kit.
Packaging of the kit was superb too. I had it mailed to an address in LA, an airline friend picked it up there for me and brought it home to Australia. I can recommend this short kit.
02-21-2019, 05:58 PM
#1581
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: rhome,
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You will like the plane ,flys like it’s on rails
i have Dle 30,s on mine,word of caution the nacelles are narrow and required re enforcing with aluminum
the original plane was designed for .61cc glo engines
i have Dle 30,s on mine,word of caution the nacelles are narrow and required re enforcing with aluminum
the original plane was designed for .61cc glo engines
02-22-2019, 12:22 PM
#1583
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Kyneton, AUSTRALIA
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02-22-2019, 12:27 PM
#1584
Update
Its been a while but since this thread has come back to life I figured I would post a few pictures of where Im at. Im installing wiring harnesses and then Im going to start glassing the wings. Not too much left after that, gear doors in the center wing and then onto the Fuselage detailing. Opening door, vacuum form the windows and the cockpit kit are next.
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frankeldan (12-28-2020)
02-28-2019, 04:17 AM
#1585
Thread Starter
Looks really great, have you put her on the scales lately to see what she is at
weight wise? You have done a really great job, keep it going, looking forward
to the finished aircraft!
weight wise? You have done a really great job, keep it going, looking forward
to the finished aircraft!
02-28-2019, 05:18 AM
#1587
I'll get some weights this weekend, I want to finish mounting as much hardware as possible to get some accurate numbers. She will be heavy once you factor in the electric retracts and adding the cockpit, I guess it was a good idea to go with the twin 36cc vs the 22cc engines. It's finally at the point where it all the small details to finish, it's not as exciting as the start of the build where you get to see some real progress being made. I'm trying to juggle this build and 2 fiberglass Super Chipmunks at the same time and it's a lot of work! Trying to coordinate the builds so I'm working on the same items at the same time keeps me on track but is a lot to manage, soon it's going to be time to glass the flying surfaces and start the detailing.
04-17-2019, 08:28 AM
#1590
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Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Agawam, MA
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Beautiful work! I have a Nosen 310 kit still in the box. I have 2 OS FS61 engines new in the box. Looking for opinions/suggestions in using the 4-strokes or just putting in .60 two strokes (FS60's). Thanks in advance.
Antares100
Antares100
04-17-2019, 08:40 AM
#1591
Thread Starter
with Bud Nosen several years ago, he still owned the original prototype that was powered by 2 stoke 60's and occasionally flew it from time to time.
Is the kit you have an original Bud Nosen kit or is it one of the AA Industry kits?
Bill D.
Last edited by Bill Diedrich; 04-17-2019 at 08:42 AM. Reason: spelling
04-17-2019, 06:13 PM
#1592
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I don't remember, I have two of them, both re-boxed when I got them, both still have original plans and instructions (sorry about the mis-information before, I was in a hurry). I have 2 FS90 Surpasses, not the FS 61s.. I am assuming they would be powerful enough, but still interested in opinions/suggestions. I will probably have time to dig them out and I'll let you know.
04-18-2019, 04:55 AM
#1593
Thread Starter
On the Bud Nosen kits the die-cutting was usually very "crisp" and the parts usually almost fell out
of the sheets, however when AA Industries bought out the kit lines, after a short period, the cutters
became dull and most of the kits as we refer to them were "die-crushed", meaning the edges of the
parts were not clean and sometime needed to be totally replaced as they were unusable. Also the
wood selection on the original Bud Nosen kits was very good, on the AA Industries kits, not so good.
If my memory serves me right my "partner in crime, Too Low" on this forum had a 310 that was
powered by a couple of OS FS-90's, built "very light" the 310 should fly without any problems on
the 4-stroke 90's, but again a bit more power on this plane is very useful, as many of the older
veterans on this forum would tell you, plus the reliability of the "gas" engines on a twin are a plus
compared to glow power. If I were ever to build another one I would go with a pair of the small
gas engines that are available in the 20-30 cc range. But this is your project and I know with
retracts the cost of getting one of the Nosen 310's airborne isn't for the average RC modeler
and flyer. Also remember when selecting the power for the Nosen 310, that the more you put
into it, retracts, onboard batteries for ignition or to keep glow plugs lit at idle or low throttle settings
the more the weight increases, hence the need for more power. If you are absolutely sure you want
to use the FS-90's then I would suggest that you plan on using fixed landing gear, the choice is yours.
Bill D.
of the sheets, however when AA Industries bought out the kit lines, after a short period, the cutters
became dull and most of the kits as we refer to them were "die-crushed", meaning the edges of the
parts were not clean and sometime needed to be totally replaced as they were unusable. Also the
wood selection on the original Bud Nosen kits was very good, on the AA Industries kits, not so good.
If my memory serves me right my "partner in crime, Too Low" on this forum had a 310 that was
powered by a couple of OS FS-90's, built "very light" the 310 should fly without any problems on
the 4-stroke 90's, but again a bit more power on this plane is very useful, as many of the older
veterans on this forum would tell you, plus the reliability of the "gas" engines on a twin are a plus
compared to glow power. If I were ever to build another one I would go with a pair of the small
gas engines that are available in the 20-30 cc range. But this is your project and I know with
retracts the cost of getting one of the Nosen 310's airborne isn't for the average RC modeler
and flyer. Also remember when selecting the power for the Nosen 310, that the more you put
into it, retracts, onboard batteries for ignition or to keep glow plugs lit at idle or low throttle settings
the more the weight increases, hence the need for more power. If you are absolutely sure you want
to use the FS-90's then I would suggest that you plan on using fixed landing gear, the choice is yours.
Bill D.
04-18-2019, 05:45 PM
#1594
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Thanks for responding, Bill. Yes, I will probably be using fixed gear, not just for weight reduction but seems it is hard to find dependable electric gear from reading this thread. I always try to build as light as possible. Thanks again!
04-19-2019, 01:55 PM
#1595
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Most of the 310's built as of late are powered by gas engines around 20cc and up. Built "light" the 2 61 2 strokes would probably fly it but it would be very marginal on power, as the 310 has a lot of inherent drag. Back in the beginning when the aircraft was designed, 60's were the largest engines available. In a conversation I had
with Bud Nosen several years ago, he still owned the original prototype that was powered by 2 stoke 60's and occasionally flew it from time to time.
Is the kit you have an original Bud Nosen kit or is it one of the AA Industry kits?
Bill D.
with Bud Nosen several years ago, he still owned the original prototype that was powered by 2 stoke 60's and occasionally flew it from time to time.
Is the kit you have an original Bud Nosen kit or is it one of the AA Industry kits?
Bill D.
04-25-2020, 01:44 AM
#1599
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Kyneton, AUSTRALIA
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Welcome to 2020 finally.
Does anyone have a bill of materials - primarily balsa required? For a plans build. I have the AMA Models laser cut short kit
Thanks
Norm in Australia
Back in the air after 2 years without one - I managed to get a new in box 8 foot span ARF 310. 6.5kg weight, 2 x OS46AX out of my previous 310.
The ply thing behind it is a wing from my current Experimental build, Melendez MB-1 FirStar, from Texas. (No, you won't find it on google either!)
Does anyone have a bill of materials - primarily balsa required? For a plans build. I have the AMA Models laser cut short kit
Thanks
Norm in Australia
Back in the air after 2 years without one - I managed to get a new in box 8 foot span ARF 310. 6.5kg weight, 2 x OS46AX out of my previous 310.
The ply thing behind it is a wing from my current Experimental build, Melendez MB-1 FirStar, from Texas. (No, you won't find it on google either!)
04-25-2020, 10:10 AM
#1600
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Goldendale, WA
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Hello Handyman
Hey Handyman,
I have picked up an airframe for a Nosen 310 and was also thinking about putting in a pair or 160 electric motors but run 8s on each since I have lots of 4s packs.
I do have a few questions.
1. Did you have to add any weight to get the CG worked out?
2. What size and how many blades is your prop?
It looks like an 18" prop is the largest I can go and still have ground clearance
3. Were you able to load the batteries through the original fuel tank opening or did you enlarge it?.
4. What is your RTF weight?
Thanks, Gary
I have picked up an airframe for a Nosen 310 and was also thinking about putting in a pair or 160 electric motors but run 8s on each since I have lots of 4s packs.
I do have a few questions.
1. Did you have to add any weight to get the CG worked out?
2. What size and how many blades is your prop?
It looks like an 18" prop is the largest I can go and still have ground clearance
3. Were you able to load the batteries through the original fuel tank opening or did you enlarge it?.
4. What is your RTF weight?
Thanks, Gary