Skyshark Dauntless Build
01-26-2016, 11:46 AM
#26
Thread Starter
[HR][/HR] Got more done today on the cowl. I drew lines where the back of the cowl should be on the blocks and using the Dremel router, cut down the thickness of the cowl on each block. I lined the cowl up at the top and drilled/screwed one screw in to hold cowl. I then checked the roundness of the cowl to the fuse and drilled the remaining holes so all around the cowl lines up with the fuse side profile.
Put the engine back and cut the hole for the engine head. I'll be using a remote glow for this as the glow plug ends up real close to the bottom cowl mount. Cut out the plastic belly pan and started trimming a little at a time. I ended up adding 3/16 of balsa to the front of the wings leading edge to get the plastic back enough where it belonged. With everything in place there will be a need for a very little amount of body filler to make all fit correctly. Actually pretty impressed with the fit of the plastic.
Cowl blocks after they were dadoed. Cowl lies flush with blocks and fuse.
Top of cowl with gun recesses sanded out with the dremel. I will be using low profile screws on the finished plane.
This is a picture inside the cowl showing the bottom block and the spacing all around the balsa ring.
Not a lot of the head sticks out but enough to keep it cooler.
With the engine moved over 1/10" from center for the right thrust, the prop hub is pretty much dead center.
Cowl on, motor in, canopies and tail on. I like to assemble my builds from time to time as I build for inspiration.
The classic dauntless lines starting to show, especially in this angle.
Just starting on the wing fairings now.
Plastic belly pan in place. You can see piece of balsa added at the leading edge to match things up better. It's pretty close.
You can see in this picture there will be a need for very little body filler to get it to be right.
Put the engine back and cut the hole for the engine head. I'll be using a remote glow for this as the glow plug ends up real close to the bottom cowl mount. Cut out the plastic belly pan and started trimming a little at a time. I ended up adding 3/16 of balsa to the front of the wings leading edge to get the plastic back enough where it belonged. With everything in place there will be a need for a very little amount of body filler to make all fit correctly. Actually pretty impressed with the fit of the plastic.
Cowl blocks after they were dadoed. Cowl lies flush with blocks and fuse.
Top of cowl with gun recesses sanded out with the dremel. I will be using low profile screws on the finished plane.
This is a picture inside the cowl showing the bottom block and the spacing all around the balsa ring.
Not a lot of the head sticks out but enough to keep it cooler.
With the engine moved over 1/10" from center for the right thrust, the prop hub is pretty much dead center.
Cowl on, motor in, canopies and tail on. I like to assemble my builds from time to time as I build for inspiration.
The classic dauntless lines starting to show, especially in this angle.
Just starting on the wing fairings now.
Plastic belly pan in place. You can see piece of balsa added at the leading edge to match things up better. It's pretty close.
You can see in this picture there will be a need for very little body filler to get it to be right.
Last edited by chistech; 01-26-2016 at 11:59 AM.
01-27-2016, 05:39 PM
#27
Thread Starter
Got all the tail surfaces rounded off and hinged. I put together the plastic tail cone and did not like it one bit. It doesn't fit anything like the upper deck or belly pan so I decided to got the wood route. Glued up some pieces to make it hollow and made up some wood fillets from the cone to the elevators. Shaped the fill in pieces that go on the the top of the stab and fin area. Tail area just about done now until assembly. Going to glass the stab and fin separately before assembly also.
Elevators all hinged up with Robart points.
All surfaces rounded.
Fin rounded and tapered at the top.
Used two pieces of 3/8 to make up the tail cone.
Pieces on the tail. It got a piece of 3/8 balsa on the top.
Shape of the fuse traced on the cone.
Tail cone shaped up.
Block to make up a fillet.
Right fillet being shaped to size.
Left fillet being shaped.
Rear of the tail cone with both fillets done.
Elevators all hinged up with Robart points.
All surfaces rounded.
Fin rounded and tapered at the top.
Used two pieces of 3/8 to make up the tail cone.
Pieces on the tail. It got a piece of 3/8 balsa on the top.
Shape of the fuse traced on the cone.
Tail cone shaped up.
Block to make up a fillet.
Right fillet being shaped to size.
Left fillet being shaped.
Rear of the tail cone with both fillets done.
01-28-2016, 08:59 PM
#29
Thread Starter
Thanks LDM. It's nice not having to vary too far off the basic kit design. Many times in my builds I end up changing something enough that it adds a significant amount of time. Not so much yet on this Skyshark. Pretty nice kit.
01-29-2016, 02:43 AM
#30
My Feedback: (15)
I agree, I remeber many builds on these kits and the quality and completeness is outstanding. I have in my possesion and have built many of the Top Flight Red box and Gold edition, quite the contrary in comparison. When you find yourself bashing a kit more then 50%, you might as well scratch build the plane.
However what your doing is not easy and I appreciate your skill, the sanding cutting and fitting looks excellant and its enjoyable to watch.
Just letting you the effort is respected !
However what your doing is not easy and I appreciate your skill, the sanding cutting and fitting looks excellant and its enjoyable to watch.
Just letting you the effort is respected !
01-30-2016, 09:03 AM
#32
Thread Starter
You gentlemen are too generous with your accolades. Thank you. More pictures of work done to come soon. Just went and looked at another rare antique car to buy yesterday. If I end up getting it, it will wait only until this Dauntless is done and then probably go to restoring it, putting the RC building on the back burner. It's a 32' Olds roadster. Super nice elegant car. We'll see.
Ted
Ted
01-31-2016, 08:50 PM
#33
Thread Starter
Finally got back to working on the Dauntless today. I cut out the plastic fairings to rough size. Though the directions don't say anything, I used 1/64 ply to make up the bottom of the fairings. I glued a piece of ply to each side of the wing saddle, put some wax paper where I needed to glue the joints, and bolted up the wing. I assembled and glued on the rear wood fuse fairings even with the back of the wing. I used a piece of 1/4sq with a slight angle sanded on it to help support the wood fairing better are the back of the fuse.
With careful trimming on the molded lines, the fairings fit really well. Once I was happy with the fit, I measured for three 1/8 balsa supports for the fairings. Using my duplicator gauge, I was able to get the proper curvature of the fairing to put on the supports. Using the duplicator again, I got the shape of the fuse for the other side of the support. I made up supports for both sides, and when I was happy with the way the fairings fit, glued them in place. Taking my time, I carefully feather sanded down the top edge, the bottom edge where it contacts the 1/64 ply, and the rear back corner of the fillet. The bottom edge that contacts the wood fillets doesn't need to get sanded. I did sand the edges on both wood fillets to match the angle of the contact areas of the plastic fillet. Taking your time and really sanding the edges down thin makes for a nice clean line between the fillet and the fuse/ply.
Using small pins, I pinned the very front point of the plastic fillet in place. Holding the fillet where I wanted it, I pinned the back corner. I then used a felt pen and traced the line of the fillet then taped off the line pretty close. With the lines traced I now had my glue lines. I taped on the back of the fillet, pulled the front point off the fuse but left the pin in the fillet. Using medium Zap, I glued about the first 4" of the fillet in place, basically starting at the first balsa support I made, forward. I pushed the the fillet back in place using the pin to guide it back in it's correct location. Once the glue set, I took the tape off the back of the fillet and lifted it up enough to run a line of Zap down the rest of the 64th ply. Once the glue set, I pulled the remainder of the top edge away from the fuse and ran Zap from the first support, all the way to the tail end of the fillet. Once set, the bottom edge of the plastic fillet is glued to the wood fillet. Then all is trimmed and sanded anywhere needed.
I recommend using the plastic fairing as the fit real well and if the builder takes their time, are easy to install saving lots of work. Mine seem to be nice and strong too.
I also cut out one side of the cooling vent per Brian's design. Assembled it up for a photo op and put one of the two 1/9th pilot figures I have on hand. (I usually buy a few pilot figures at a time but find I'm running out of US Navy ones. Have a couple Japanese on hand for some of my other builds though.
Couple of tail shots I forgot to post.
Will add the rest of the fillet once the stab is glued to the fuse.
3 balsa support made up with the 64th ply on the top of the wing. Plastic fillet pinned at the point.
Fillet completely glued in place with Zap. Nice flat joints at the fuse and ply.
Here's the bottom view of the ply on the wing saddle and the wood fillets at the top of the picture.
Shot of the fillet with the wing off and all sanded down at the ply.
Here's the finished fit to the wing.
Cooling vent cut in. I put Zap on the end grain of the sheeting to strengthen it up.
Front shot with dive brakes open and pilot in his office.
Rear shot with brakes open. Going to be a pretty impressive little model.
Another shot with the wing mostly closed up. Can't get it to fully close with the servos doing the work. The wing fillets really start to finish the air frame up.
With careful trimming on the molded lines, the fairings fit really well. Once I was happy with the fit, I measured for three 1/8 balsa supports for the fairings. Using my duplicator gauge, I was able to get the proper curvature of the fairing to put on the supports. Using the duplicator again, I got the shape of the fuse for the other side of the support. I made up supports for both sides, and when I was happy with the way the fairings fit, glued them in place. Taking my time, I carefully feather sanded down the top edge, the bottom edge where it contacts the 1/64 ply, and the rear back corner of the fillet. The bottom edge that contacts the wood fillets doesn't need to get sanded. I did sand the edges on both wood fillets to match the angle of the contact areas of the plastic fillet. Taking your time and really sanding the edges down thin makes for a nice clean line between the fillet and the fuse/ply.
Using small pins, I pinned the very front point of the plastic fillet in place. Holding the fillet where I wanted it, I pinned the back corner. I then used a felt pen and traced the line of the fillet then taped off the line pretty close. With the lines traced I now had my glue lines. I taped on the back of the fillet, pulled the front point off the fuse but left the pin in the fillet. Using medium Zap, I glued about the first 4" of the fillet in place, basically starting at the first balsa support I made, forward. I pushed the the fillet back in place using the pin to guide it back in it's correct location. Once the glue set, I took the tape off the back of the fillet and lifted it up enough to run a line of Zap down the rest of the 64th ply. Once the glue set, I pulled the remainder of the top edge away from the fuse and ran Zap from the first support, all the way to the tail end of the fillet. Once set, the bottom edge of the plastic fillet is glued to the wood fillet. Then all is trimmed and sanded anywhere needed.
I recommend using the plastic fairing as the fit real well and if the builder takes their time, are easy to install saving lots of work. Mine seem to be nice and strong too.
I also cut out one side of the cooling vent per Brian's design. Assembled it up for a photo op and put one of the two 1/9th pilot figures I have on hand. (I usually buy a few pilot figures at a time but find I'm running out of US Navy ones. Have a couple Japanese on hand for some of my other builds though.
Couple of tail shots I forgot to post.
Will add the rest of the fillet once the stab is glued to the fuse.
3 balsa support made up with the 64th ply on the top of the wing. Plastic fillet pinned at the point.
Fillet completely glued in place with Zap. Nice flat joints at the fuse and ply.
Here's the bottom view of the ply on the wing saddle and the wood fillets at the top of the picture.
Shot of the fillet with the wing off and all sanded down at the ply.
Here's the finished fit to the wing.
Cooling vent cut in. I put Zap on the end grain of the sheeting to strengthen it up.
Front shot with dive brakes open and pilot in his office.
Rear shot with brakes open. Going to be a pretty impressive little model.
Another shot with the wing mostly closed up. Can't get it to fully close with the servos doing the work. The wing fillets really start to finish the air frame up.
02-02-2016, 01:47 PM
#34
Thread Starter
My best friend, great builder, and airbrush painter aficionado is doing a fiberglass show and tell tonight at our club meeting and my stab will be the item being covered. I wanted to get the elevators, rudder, and ailerons covered so yesterday I brushed on the Balsarite and got the elevators and rudder covered with aluminum colored Solartex. I finished up the ailerons early this morning. The Solartex is a great product to work with. I use the aluminum so after it's painted, some paint can be scraped off to simulate primer or aluminum depending on what model I building. Can't get plain Coverite any more any way!.
Piece by piece, it's coming together. Got the 7/8" hole for the fuel tank drilled and fit the fuel tank in. Most of wants going in the plane is in other than the two pilots and cockpit details. Still have the muffler to fit , the fueler, and the remote glow but it's just those little things. Got to clean up my work bench and give the whole area a good vacuuming. Nice to have a clean areas again plus it makes the wife happy. She usually works out about 6' from where I work on my planes. She likes having the company when she's on her elliptical.
How much a little covering adds. Added a piece of 1/8 balsa at the base of the rudder to fill the gap in before I covered it.
Starboard aileron covered.
The trim tabs will be painted on with the airbrush. A special technique used make them look 3 dimensional.
All assembled with flaps down and ready to go the meeting where I'll take the stab off for glassing. Put my radio gear in and the switch is out on the port side of the saddle so I can do a SAT.
Same shot as a previous post just with the flight surfaces covered.
Piece by piece, it's coming together. Got the 7/8" hole for the fuel tank drilled and fit the fuel tank in. Most of wants going in the plane is in other than the two pilots and cockpit details. Still have the muffler to fit , the fueler, and the remote glow but it's just those little things. Got to clean up my work bench and give the whole area a good vacuuming. Nice to have a clean areas again plus it makes the wife happy. She usually works out about 6' from where I work on my planes. She likes having the company when she's on her elliptical.
How much a little covering adds. Added a piece of 1/8 balsa at the base of the rudder to fill the gap in before I covered it.
Starboard aileron covered.
The trim tabs will be painted on with the airbrush. A special technique used make them look 3 dimensional.
All assembled with flaps down and ready to go the meeting where I'll take the stab off for glassing. Put my radio gear in and the switch is out on the port side of the saddle so I can do a SAT.
Same shot as a previous post just with the flight surfaces covered.
02-07-2016, 06:38 PM
#35
Thread Starter
Didn't get the stab fiberglassed last Tuesday night. Turns out Gerry's catalyst had gone bad so nothing to cure the resin with. When Gerry was looking at the wing fairing he told me how the rear bottom of the wing fairing leaves the bottom of the fuse smoothly and the pieces supplied in the kit for the bottom of the fairing don't really give that as an end result. You end up with a raised portion of the fuse in the bottom of the fairing.
To remedy this, I ended up adding two pieces of 1/4" sheeting and tapering them a lot to blend them in. A lot of shaping with a piece of sandpaper taped to the rear of the fuse gave me what I needed for a good flat bond. I ended up adding a 1/4" tapered piece on each side to close the gap between the old fairing bottom line and the new pieces added. Added some thin filler in a few spots but I've ended up a nice flat junction to the fuse with the fairing bottom.
Here's how the stock fairing bottom finishes into the fuse and it's wrong.
Here's the view from the bottom
Two pieces of 1/4 sheeting sanded to the fuse bottom shape and tapered thin at the front where glued to the existing fairing bottom
1/4sq added to fill the gaps in the sides and rough sanded to shape. Some filler added.
Still in the rough but now a smooth transition out of the fuse bottom.
Bottom view of the new fairing. Still not quite right but better than it was.
Here's a side shot of the back of the new fairing bottom.
Right side of fairing all done and sanded.
Left fairing all done.
To remedy this, I ended up adding two pieces of 1/4" sheeting and tapering them a lot to blend them in. A lot of shaping with a piece of sandpaper taped to the rear of the fuse gave me what I needed for a good flat bond. I ended up adding a 1/4" tapered piece on each side to close the gap between the old fairing bottom line and the new pieces added. Added some thin filler in a few spots but I've ended up a nice flat junction to the fuse with the fairing bottom.
Here's how the stock fairing bottom finishes into the fuse and it's wrong.
Here's the view from the bottom
Two pieces of 1/4 sheeting sanded to the fuse bottom shape and tapered thin at the front where glued to the existing fairing bottom
1/4sq added to fill the gaps in the sides and rough sanded to shape. Some filler added.
Still in the rough but now a smooth transition out of the fuse bottom.
Bottom view of the new fairing. Still not quite right but better than it was.
Here's a side shot of the back of the new fairing bottom.
Right side of fairing all done and sanded.
Left fairing all done.
02-14-2016, 08:02 PM
#36
Thread Starter
Haven't done much in the last week or so as we need resin catalyst and haven't had the chance to go pick some up. I also need trim tape to start taping off the inside of the canopy so I can paint the inside zinc chromate green. Then I'll mask the outside for when it's painted with the rest of the model. The rear canopy will be all cut up and put in the forward stowed position so I can have the gunner and the twin fifties out. Here are some pictures of the guns I made up tonight. I used a Parmesan cheese contain for the main ring and the perforated gun run. The main ring was made from the cover and the perforated gun ring was made from the bottom's threaded top.
I sanded off all the plastic threads on both pieces and started working on them. The main rings is too small and I will have to look for something different. The Pilot/gunner figure I have is just a little cramped inside the ring so I will make a slightly larger one. The guns are coming along pretty nicely and will have enough detail to look good when painted right. I'm also putting evergreen plastic sheeting down on all the floors and bulkheads to make for a much better look when the cockpits get painted.
Here's the top from the Parmesan container.
Covers are snapped off the center and the center is cut away.
Here's the threaded top of the container with a graduated piece of tap on it, with the holes drilled.
top of the container cut off the bottle
Here's the assembled green main ring, the drilled gun ring attached, and the pair of Ma Dueces
The barrels are currently brass but will end up just dowels, cross drilled. The guns will get more details, some resining, and then paint.
Right now it's like putting 10lbs of $h(t in a 5lb bag in that rear cockpit. I'm going to use the drilled gun ring with a slightly bigger main ring to give "Joe" more room.
I sanded off all the plastic threads on both pieces and started working on them. The main rings is too small and I will have to look for something different. The Pilot/gunner figure I have is just a little cramped inside the ring so I will make a slightly larger one. The guns are coming along pretty nicely and will have enough detail to look good when painted right. I'm also putting evergreen plastic sheeting down on all the floors and bulkheads to make for a much better look when the cockpits get painted.
Here's the top from the Parmesan container.
Covers are snapped off the center and the center is cut away.
Here's the threaded top of the container with a graduated piece of tap on it, with the holes drilled.
top of the container cut off the bottle
Here's the assembled green main ring, the drilled gun ring attached, and the pair of Ma Dueces
The barrels are currently brass but will end up just dowels, cross drilled. The guns will get more details, some resining, and then paint.
Right now it's like putting 10lbs of $h(t in a 5lb bag in that rear cockpit. I'm going to use the drilled gun ring with a slightly bigger main ring to give "Joe" more room.
02-15-2016, 03:55 AM
#37
My Feedback: (15)
Incredible work Chis, really enjoying your craftsmanship ! Very motivational too say the leaste.
A few years back I was converting an eflight At6 to a Dauntless. I happend accross Tom Pierce website and his build on a giant scale Dauntless. Tons of great free details step by step on his build.
In the event that you need pictures check out his thread at TomPierce Dauntless Build,
Keep up the good work
By the way great pilot , did not know they were still around . I purchase one from Roy up at Wram a few years back and I thought I had the last of that type .
A few years back I was converting an eflight At6 to a Dauntless. I happend accross Tom Pierce website and his build on a giant scale Dauntless. Tons of great free details step by step on his build.
In the event that you need pictures check out his thread at TomPierce Dauntless Build,
Keep up the good work
By the way great pilot , did not know they were still around . I purchase one from Roy up at Wram a few years back and I thought I had the last of that type .
Last edited by LDM; 02-15-2016 at 03:58 AM.
02-15-2016, 04:40 PM
#39
Thread Starter
Worked some more on Gus the gunner's office and Gus himself. It's the old Vailly Aviation pilots they used to carry. I was able to cut and glue his arms up to hold the gun's handles and just need to do a little work on his head's angle then he'll get puddied up and painted.
Here's Gus looking half way decent I think. I ended up making a new pivot block for the guns to move them a little farther out on the gun ring.
I think when the Dauntless is all done this same shot is going to look real good.
Another shot
Sure adds a lot of detail and a good look
Here's Gus looking half way decent I think. I ended up making a new pivot block for the guns to move them a little farther out on the gun ring.
I think when the Dauntless is all done this same shot is going to look real good.
Another shot
Sure adds a lot of detail and a good look
02-15-2016, 07:15 PM
#40
My Feedback: (15)
Awesome the scale size of the pilots looks exact as well as the height . Everything is really comeing together !
I just notived you said it's an old Valley Avaition pilot ! That is what I thought I loved the pilots I was able to get one fully painted from the man himself. He was at Wram a few years back and I went to his booth . and I asked about the pilot and he said " I painted this one was going to use it and don't need it .
I will let it go for $35". Well I could not get the cash out fast enought lol . I wish he still made them Roy is a great modeler.
I just notived you said it's an old Valley Avaition pilot ! That is what I thought I loved the pilots I was able to get one fully painted from the man himself. He was at Wram a few years back and I went to his booth . and I asked about the pilot and he said " I painted this one was going to use it and don't need it .
I will let it go for $35". Well I could not get the cash out fast enought lol . I wish he still made them Roy is a great modeler.
Last edited by LDM; 02-15-2016 at 07:20 PM.
02-15-2016, 07:22 PM
#41
Thread Starter
It's a shame we can't get these 1/9th pilots anymore. I have 15-20 kit or so to build. I have a few Japanese pilots by Magmen that are good but need many more US pilots. Got one of the old H9 latex British pilots all painted waiting to go into my Tettra Spitfire when I build it. Pilots are just getting hard to find in the scale I need. If I could buy the molds I'd consider going into the business.
02-16-2016, 02:41 AM
#43
My Feedback: (15)
Ted
1) did you get the car ? Inquiring minds want to know
.
2) Pilots , I had to settle on some crappy pilots from the Foam leaders in the ARF industry. They make a pilot that can be seen on the Motion RC website for the 1700mm Mustang. The problem is that every one of them has the oxygen mask on the face so at times they look out of place. I have added laces and some details to try to bring them to life but they need more in the way of life jackets etc. I am bashing a TBM on RCU and you can see the alien looking pilot in my plane. It's a bone of contention but I had no choice as I used my Valley Pilot in a more worthy P40N .
1) did you get the car ? Inquiring minds want to know
.2) Pilots , I had to settle on some crappy pilots from the Foam leaders in the ARF industry. They make a pilot that can be seen on the Motion RC website for the 1700mm Mustang. The problem is that every one of them has the oxygen mask on the face so at times they look out of place. I have added laces and some details to try to bring them to life but they need more in the way of life jackets etc. I am bashing a TBM on RCU and you can see the alien looking pilot in my plane. It's a bone of contention but I had no choice as I used my Valley Pilot in a more worthy P40N
.
02-16-2016, 05:38 AM
#44
Thread Starter
Tom,
Are you using a 3D printer. I never thought about it but maybe it would be a good investment. I have one more VA pilot still new to go in the front of this Dauntless. Wonder if I can make a mold for it somehow. Does anyone know how? Can I make a glass mold?
Are you using a 3D printer. I never thought about it but maybe it would be a good investment. I have one more VA pilot still new to go in the front of this Dauntless. Wonder if I can make a mold for it somehow. Does anyone know how? Can I make a glass mold?
02-16-2016, 05:48 AM
#45
Thread Starter
Ted
1) did you get the car ? Inquiring minds want to know .
2) Pilots , I had to settle on some crappy pilots from the Foam leaders in the ARF industry. They make a pilot that can be seen on the Motion RC website for the 1700mm Mustang. The problem is that every one of them has the oxygen mask on the face so at times they look out of place. I have added laces and some details to try to bring them to life but they need more in the way of life jackets etc. I am bashing a TBM on RCU and you can see the alien looking pilot in my plane. It's a bone of contention but I had no choice as I used my Valley Pilot in a more worthy P40N .
1) did you get the car ? Inquiring minds want to know
.2) Pilots , I had to settle on some crappy pilots from the Foam leaders in the ARF industry. They make a pilot that can be seen on the Motion RC website for the 1700mm Mustang. The problem is that every one of them has the oxygen mask on the face so at times they look out of place. I have added laces and some details to try to bring them to life but they need more in the way of life jackets etc. I am bashing a TBM on RCU and you can see the alien looking pilot in my plane. It's a bone of contention but I had no choice as I used my Valley Pilot in a more worthy P40N
.2. Might look into Tom's idea of 3D printing. Should get one anyway for all the other stuff I do. LOL
Picture notes: First picture is a wooden wheeled 8cyl model that been restored of course and NOT mine. The other pictures are of mine currently stored in my mom's garage until this early summer, then it will come home. Looks like crap now but will be much better when I'm done with it. Last picture is my 31' Chevy that looked the same when I got it and 13months later is how it looks in the pictures.
02-16-2016, 05:52 AM
#46
No, not I , but I know guys are making cool stuff these days,, lots of guys offering their services
these guy do cool stuff too
http://bestpilots.typepad.com/my_web...-like-you.html
these guy do cool stuff too
http://bestpilots.typepad.com/my_web...-like-you.html
Last edited by scale only 4 me; 02-16-2016 at 05:55 AM.
02-16-2016, 06:05 AM
#47
Thread Starter
Best pilots do great work. Problem is they're twice the size I need and cost as much as the kit itself. If I ever go that scale size route they are a perfect option but for now, I need to find an alternative. Now you've got me thinking about this 3D thing and that's bad! LOL
02-16-2016, 06:23 AM
#49
Thread Starter
Wow, that sucks! Sleeping on the job and losing his head. My kingfisher has one from H9 (made in England) in the front but that plane stays in my spare bedroom during most of it's life. I guess it's probably the sun that does them in. The rear pilot is one of the three VA ones I got here on RCU for sale section a couple years back. You would think they could shrink the scale down but if you read, they only make the face with the 3D and put it on one of their current pilot bodies. There's not enough of 1/9th builders around and probably barely enough builders in all scales to make it worth it for them.
