Introducing the Top RC Model Odyssey - New sport jet - build thread
#454
Clean the surface, sand it lightly , then wipe with acetone and smear it with 30min epoxy or laminating epoxy. You may want to add 25g/m2 glass fiber sheet also to strenghten the seam.
#458
Hi
couple of questions.
Any ideas how strong is the airframe ?? Will it take a 20 kg turbine ??
How big is the fuel tank??
Any ideas how fast are your goung with the 14kg turbine??
thanks
Tomas
couple of questions.
Any ideas how strong is the airframe ?? Will it take a 20 kg turbine ??
How big is the fuel tank??
Any ideas how fast are your goung with the 14kg turbine??
thanks
Tomas
#459
My Feedback: (25)
[ QUOTE=Olafsson;12543051]Hi
couple of questions.
Any ideas how strong is the airframe ?? Will it take a 20 kg turbine ??
How big is the fuel tank??
Any ideas how fast are your goung with the 14kg turbine??
thanks
Tomas[/QUOTE]
airframe seems plenty strong. No idea on weather it can handle a 200. I will be flying mine Saturday. I’ll put my GPS in and get you some speed numbers. For me it flies very very good with the 140.
couple of questions.
Any ideas how strong is the airframe ?? Will it take a 20 kg turbine ??
How big is the fuel tank??
Any ideas how fast are your goung with the 14kg turbine??
thanks
Tomas[/QUOTE]
airframe seems plenty strong. No idea on weather it can handle a 200. I will be flying mine Saturday. I’ll put my GPS in and get you some speed numbers. For me it flies very very good with the 140.
#460
Thank
I would like to use a Hawk 190R, so a 130mm diameter turbine . and I need about 3 liter of fuel.
I have a Diamod with a Hawk 240R but it is too slow, I want to find something that can go at leaste 400km/h .
Tomas
I would like to use a Hawk 190R, so a 130mm diameter turbine . and I need about 3 liter of fuel.
I have a Diamod with a Hawk 240R but it is too slow, I want to find something that can go at leaste 400km/h .
Tomas
#462
I´m use to over powered and it have bo be used right way,
Hade a Scorpion from AD Jet with the 190R fantastic combo.
#464
I would not risk other people or property with Chinese Arf ment for much smaller engines. I am building one at the moment and it looks good so far but only for small
engines. Get a jet meant for that kind of speeds and power and everyone wiĺl be happier.
engines. Get a jet meant for that kind of speeds and power and everyone wiĺl be happier.
#465
7 flights so far. And I have removed all the lead from the nose. I initially put CG to 220mm , but its way too nose heavy. I don´t know where I am at the moment with the CG but its getting close , now I need just 1/4 of stick travel to stay inverted and when landing I can keep up my nose a bit with elevator. I know that because nosegear didn´t come down and I had to make my best landing for the season to save the plane´s nose from being destroyed.. The plane got just rashed.
I changed main spar to Carbon , 30/27mm stuff. Saved some weight. Same with elevator spar, 14/12mm and 12/10mm carbon tubes put into the tail to save some grams. Total weight at the moment is 13.4kg with UAT full. I think it will come down a bit if I change one battery to smaller, maybe 100g.
Its a good trainer, 12kg engine is plenty. I painted my canopy black from the inside to save weight, so I have a spare cockpit set to sell, please send pm if interested.
BUT has anyone managed to open up the strut? I would like to change the spring from the nose gear strut, because nose is so light at the moment and the strut is hard. So it bounces easily.
I changed main spar to Carbon , 30/27mm stuff. Saved some weight. Same with elevator spar, 14/12mm and 12/10mm carbon tubes put into the tail to save some grams. Total weight at the moment is 13.4kg with UAT full. I think it will come down a bit if I change one battery to smaller, maybe 100g.
Its a good trainer, 12kg engine is plenty. I painted my canopy black from the inside to save weight, so I have a spare cockpit set to sell, please send pm if interested.
BUT has anyone managed to open up the strut? I would like to change the spring from the nose gear strut, because nose is so light at the moment and the strut is hard. So it bounces easily.
#466
My Feedback: (25)
7 flights so far. And I have removed all the lead from the nose. I initially put CG to 220mm , but its way too nose heavy. I don´t know where I am at the moment with the CG but its getting close , now I need just 1/4 of stick travel to stay inverted and when landing I can keep up my nose a bit with elevator. I know that because nosegear didn´t come down and I had to make my best landing for the season to save the plane´s nose from being destroyed.. The plane got just rashed.
I changed main spar to Carbon , 30/27mm stuff. Saved some weight. Same with elevator spar, 14/12mm and 12/10mm carbon tubes put into the tail to save some grams. Total weight at the moment is 13.4kg with UAT full. I think it will come down a bit if I change one battery to smaller, maybe 100g.
Its a good trainer, 12kg engine is plenty. I painted my canopy black from the inside to save weight, so I have a spare cockpit set to sell, please send pm if interested.
BUT has anyone managed to open up the strut? I would like to change the spring from the nose gear strut, because nose is so light at the moment and the strut is hard. So it bounces easily.
I changed main spar to Carbon , 30/27mm stuff. Saved some weight. Same with elevator spar, 14/12mm and 12/10mm carbon tubes put into the tail to save some grams. Total weight at the moment is 13.4kg with UAT full. I think it will come down a bit if I change one battery to smaller, maybe 100g.
Its a good trainer, 12kg engine is plenty. I painted my canopy black from the inside to save weight, so I have a spare cockpit set to sell, please send pm if interested.
BUT has anyone managed to open up the strut? I would like to change the spring from the nose gear strut, because nose is so light at the moment and the strut is hard. So it bounces easily.
Thanks.
#467
https://www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/...30mm-27mm.html
I got mine from there. I made plywood plugs into the ends of rod to keep it from crushing accidentally.
I am used to rear CoGs and 220mm was waaay too noseheavy with lower rates. 1/2 stick travel push to maintain level.
I got mine from there. I made plywood plugs into the ends of rod to keep it from crushing accidentally.
I am used to rear CoGs and 220mm was waaay too noseheavy with lower rates. 1/2 stick travel push to maintain level.
#468
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (51)
https://www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/...30mm-27mm.html
I got mine from there. I made plywood plugs into the ends of rod to keep it from crushing accidentally.
I am used to rear CoGs and 220mm was waaay too noseheavy with lower rates. 1/2 stick travel push to maintain level.
I got mine from there. I made plywood plugs into the ends of rod to keep it from crushing accidentally.
I am used to rear CoGs and 220mm was waaay too noseheavy with lower rates. 1/2 stick travel push to maintain level.
Dont you just love the odyssey once tuned to your liking? she just floats in the air effortlessly!
that carbon tube looks good - any information about its bending strength compared to original aluminum? how much weight did it save?
#469
Original is 404g, this is 190g. Half the weight..
I am still tuning the cg.. getting it backwards all the time.
now it starts to snap when stalling as earlier with noseheavy cf it just mushed.
I didnt measure tail weight savings, maybe around 30g..
I am still tuning the cg.. getting it backwards all the time.
now it starts to snap when stalling as earlier with noseheavy cf it just mushed.
I didnt measure tail weight savings, maybe around 30g..
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luckymacy (05-11-2020)
#471
My Feedback: (4)
Ceeray,
If you have newer gear and controller, the wires coming from the brakes are wrong. The red wire is in the middle hole on the connector, should be the outer hole. I modified an extention and soldered the red wire to the orange wire going to the controller. I change the controller anyway to a Xicoy because the brakes are programmed to only be on for 5 seconds and the switch must be recycled to turn them back on. As far as the nose gear, I removed the gear door closing device and installed a servo for the gear door. Might be the gear when it retracts is overloading as it closes door and doesn't reset?
If you have newer gear and controller, the wires coming from the brakes are wrong. The red wire is in the middle hole on the connector, should be the outer hole. I modified an extention and soldered the red wire to the orange wire going to the controller. I change the controller anyway to a Xicoy because the brakes are programmed to only be on for 5 seconds and the switch must be recycled to turn them back on. As far as the nose gear, I removed the gear door closing device and installed a servo for the gear door. Might be the gear when it retracts is overloading as it closes door and doesn't reset?
#475
Here are some vids from my odyssey after 9 flights. The JP retracts and brakes from Mandy are working great.
https://youtu.be/IO1Jxp68v-U
https://youtu.be/IO1Jxp68v-U
Last edited by GULDUKAT; 09-17-2019 at 01:03 PM.