Help me decide on my first RC car/truck/buggy!
#26
It's based on their 1/8 buggy where most 1/8 buggies typically run on 4S and most 1/10 SCT's run on 2S.
When running on 4S you get a lot more efficiency as compared to 2S where the difference is that 2S motors are typically double the KV which require at least double the C rating of the battery in order to handle the higher current draw.
I feel that ARRMA is being a little extra cautious in their battery recommendation but I can't fault them for recommending a higher C rating... again the difference between 30C and 35C is nominal... there is no hard set rule, if you plan to drive the snot out of the car with the throttle pegged the whole time, then that 35C recommendation makes sense... if you're just gonna casually bash around with a few short full throttle bursts every minute or so, then the 30C pack won't break a sweat.
Regardless, you want to invest in a temp gun just to check the overall health of your system.
Plan to perform regular maintenance by cleaning your bearings and replacing the fluids in the diffs/shocks every 20-25 battery pack cycles that go through the car and it will last a VERY long time with minimal parts wear
When running on 4S you get a lot more efficiency as compared to 2S where the difference is that 2S motors are typically double the KV which require at least double the C rating of the battery in order to handle the higher current draw.
I feel that ARRMA is being a little extra cautious in their battery recommendation but I can't fault them for recommending a higher C rating... again the difference between 30C and 35C is nominal... there is no hard set rule, if you plan to drive the snot out of the car with the throttle pegged the whole time, then that 35C recommendation makes sense... if you're just gonna casually bash around with a few short full throttle bursts every minute or so, then the 30C pack won't break a sweat.
Regardless, you want to invest in a temp gun just to check the overall health of your system.
Plan to perform regular maintenance by cleaning your bearings and replacing the fluids in the diffs/shocks every 20-25 battery pack cycles that go through the car and it will last a VERY long time with minimal parts wear
#27
Something else to consider is what I call the "relative amp" rating, this is where you multiply the C rating times the capacity of the pack to tell you how much current the pack is rated for continuous draw.
35C x 5Ah = 175rA
30C x 5.2Ah = 156rA
156/175 = 89% match
Note that most 1/8 ESC's are rated to handle 150A and the pack I recommended falls within the same limit... shrug
35C x 5Ah = 175rA
30C x 5.2Ah = 156rA
156/175 = 89% match
Note that most 1/8 ESC's are rated to handle 150A and the pack I recommended falls within the same limit... shrug
#28
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2019
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok I think I was just being a little cautious. I think they will do ok for what I plan on using my Arrma for
Once these batteries kick the bucket, I will probably go for a higher C rating
Thank for the input guys, I really appreciate it!
Once these batteries kick the bucket, I will probably go for a higher C rating
Thank for the input guys, I really appreciate it!
#29
Glad to help... I was just trying to help you find the most economical option to suit your needs, if those packs last a year or more, then I'd stick with them, years ago 30C was considered a high end pack with 15C being industry standard when LiPo's were first introduced to market... nowadays it's really hard to trust that higher rated C packs are truly offering what they say, but I do see that the 100C packs I buy are definitely lasting longer, it's debatable if the extra expense for a higher C rated pack makes up the difference in price, I've seen arguments go both ways.
If you were racing at a club, then I'd definitely go with 100C packs for sure because race tracks tend to put a lot more stress on a battery
If you were racing at a club, then I'd definitely go with 100C packs for sure because race tracks tend to put a lot more stress on a battery
Last edited by bill_delong; 02-13-2019 at 08:26 AM.
#33
Many years ago I asked the very same question on here...and the Hyper 7 guys on here showed out, and I still thank them to this day!
Hyper 7, sir. Hyper 7. I'm a buggy guy, so I've owned them all, Hyper 7 is hands down the biggest bang for buck surface RC vehicle on the market today, just as is has been.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobao-h...iABEgIELfD_BwE
Definitely better than the SS. Don't let anyone (even Hobao) tell you different. I like the SS (I have one. But it's not a Hyper 7. The only perceived advantages are the steering system, and shocks...but I can run the SS steering system on my Hyper 7 (it's a King-pin design with steering link...instead of spindles/bushings with ack plate) and the 16mm shocks, compared to the 14 mm Hyper 7 shocks. I actually run the old skool 12mm from the PCR version on mine, and if I want a larger bore I'll throw some Mugen 17mm on there...which are less expensive but superior quality to the SS shocks.
Hyper 7 is as durable as ANY surface RC vehicle out there. As for RTR I don't believe there is even a close #2. Nearly impossible to break them. You will never ever run out of parts....as it's the most scalable rc RTR RC you will ever find. I run ever suspension type there is (PBS, C-hub/MBX, King Pin). The stock 7075 parts can be upgraded to CNC or CF, etc.
The Mac 28 is not a bad engine at all. If you are fairly adept with tuning you can get that engine to crack. If you are still learning how to tune then it's a very durable engine and once ready you can throw any .21-32 engine on it (bump, pull, or roto-start). I currently run an OS speed on mine and the buggy can hang with anything out there today when set up correctly. That being any buggy, truggy. or MT. Know that.
Hyper 7, sir. Hyper 7. I'm a buggy guy, so I've owned them all, Hyper 7 is hands down the biggest bang for buck surface RC vehicle on the market today, just as is has been.
https://www.amainhobbies.com/hobao-h...iABEgIELfD_BwE
Definitely better than the SS. Don't let anyone (even Hobao) tell you different. I like the SS (I have one. But it's not a Hyper 7. The only perceived advantages are the steering system, and shocks...but I can run the SS steering system on my Hyper 7 (it's a King-pin design with steering link...instead of spindles/bushings with ack plate) and the 16mm shocks, compared to the 14 mm Hyper 7 shocks. I actually run the old skool 12mm from the PCR version on mine, and if I want a larger bore I'll throw some Mugen 17mm on there...which are less expensive but superior quality to the SS shocks.
Hyper 7 is as durable as ANY surface RC vehicle out there. As for RTR I don't believe there is even a close #2. Nearly impossible to break them. You will never ever run out of parts....as it's the most scalable rc RTR RC you will ever find. I run ever suspension type there is (PBS, C-hub/MBX, King Pin). The stock 7075 parts can be upgraded to CNC or CF, etc.
The Mac 28 is not a bad engine at all. If you are fairly adept with tuning you can get that engine to crack. If you are still learning how to tune then it's a very durable engine and once ready you can throw any .21-32 engine on it (bump, pull, or roto-start). I currently run an OS speed on mine and the buggy can hang with anything out there today when set up correctly. That being any buggy, truggy. or MT. Know that.
#35
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Macau
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would suggest you buying a DHK 1/8 8384 buggy. It is very durable and low price. With a high KV brushless motor, you have a beast on the field. If you use a 150A ESC, it can run and jump very well. Watch this a YouTube video to find out its power.
Last edited by Carloss9400; 04-11-2019 at 06:34 PM.