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Sounds great. The fuel won't siphon into the engine with a full tank through the Cline regulator? Also if I use a fuel dot to fuel and defuel with a "T" before the pump will fuel get into the engine?
Thanks for your help,RON
Thanks for your help,RON
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Go here to read about the Cline regulator.
http://www.billsroom.com/pcfs/produc...uelsysdesc.htm
Here is a diagram on how you plumb it up.
http://www.billsroom.com/pcfs/produc...g/Pcfs1t1e.gif
It's pretty simple, and it works great! The cost is a little high for what it is, but it will certainly solve your problem....
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ORIGINAL: ronmustfly
Sounds great. The fuel won't siphon into the engine with a full tank through the Cline regulator? Also if I use a fuel dot to fuel and defuel with a "T" before the pump will fuel get into the engine?
Thanks for your help,RON
Sounds great. The fuel won't siphon into the engine with a full tank through the Cline regulator? Also if I use a fuel dot to fuel and defuel with a "T" before the pump will fuel get into the engine?
Thanks for your help,RON
To evacuate the tank you will need to make other arrangements like take the clunk line off the regulator to pump out the tank.
Fuel will not siphon from the tank into the engine
To fill the tank with a tee in the clunk line or through a third line will not flood the engine
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On a saito 82 I was looking at mounting it on a right angle. This brings the HS needle to the bottom (to the ground) and the throttle arm near the top of the cowl. Is it as simple as just turning the carb to get the HSneedle to the top. I put a veocity stack on and was surprised how easy things looked to switch. Is there anything that sould be know.
Thanks
Thanks
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ORIGINAL: Slats!
On a Saito 82 I was looking at mounting it on a right angle. This brings the HS needle to the bottom (to the ground) and the throttle arm near the top of the cowl. Is it as simple as just turning the carb to get the HSneedle to the top. I put a velocity stack on and was surprised how easy things looked to switch. Is there anything that should be know.
Thanks
On a Saito 82 I was looking at mounting it on a right angle. This brings the HS needle to the bottom (to the ground) and the throttle arm near the top of the cowl. Is it as simple as just turning the carb to get the HSneedle to the top. I put a velocity stack on and was surprised how easy things looked to switch. Is there anything that should be know.
Thanks
But you should also put a Oring between the velocity stack and the carb
It is generally not too hand to turn the carb around when the engine is mounted in the plane
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Do you have to buy a washer set or do you guys just go to the hardware store. I have always run inverted thinking of trying it sideways I imagine there is no difference in performance. Thanks
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I was lucky enough to have an O ring kit at home. so I just matched it up. I did not do it at first then it would not run right and the guys on here told me to check that.. And problem solved...
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ORIGINAL: w8ye
I have a Oring kit at home
The engines run their best on their side
I have a Oring kit at home
The engines run their best on their side
Thanks to you I have a wonderfull running 82. This was my first 4c..It now turns a 14x4 w at 10,200 and idles at 1900...Start's with a chicken stick everytime with one back flip.
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The plane is Great Planes' 1/12th scale combat P-47. The arf is designed for electric (no way) or 25 2- stroke glow and was an enjoyable and easy job to assemble.
While not overpowered, the Saito 30 pulls it along quite well and offers very good vertical performance with the 10x6 2-blade. I'm waiting for a 9x6x4 prop to try out.
I get a lot of "gee, that's cute" remarks at the field, but 4 or 5 are planning to buy their own.
While not overpowered, the Saito 30 pulls it along quite well and offers very good vertical performance with the 10x6 2-blade. I'm waiting for a 9x6x4 prop to try out.
I get a lot of "gee, that's cute" remarks at the field, but 4 or 5 are planning to buy their own.
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Run 'em rich, and they will go forever. So lessee, seems we are counting and measuring....My wife knows we have 10 saitos. But what we really have are: 2 x .56, 3 x .72 , 1 x .82, 2 x .91, 6 x 100,1 x 1.20 , 2 x 1.25, 3 x 1.50 , 4 x 1.80, and 2 x 2.20. That's 26. All were bought new, so if we cost average that at $300 @ it comes out to $7,800.. Throw in a DA 50, an O.S. Gemini300 twin, A Zenoah 80T, and a dozen two strokers, and I can plainly see an obsession. I prefer my Saito's to everything else, only had to send one 1.50 and the 1.20 back to Horizon after crashes, and they came back good as new under warranty. Really like the 90 degree muffler knuckles for cowling, and we keep our planes quiet here to keep our flying field neighbors happy.
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I fly a hangar 9 cub 80''wing with a 56,and a T-28 64''wing B.H. model,with a 100,both fly really well. Have been flying the cub over a year,replaced the glow plug once. Use 15% fuel.
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stallwart,very nice plane i did a e-flite cub conversion a couple of months ago with a saito .30GK this is one of my favorite planes now not over powered at all but could not fly any better,no weight added at all. I have came across a g-mark 5 cyl .30 that i am looking for another conversion, the p-47 might be what im looking for. they say the g-markis under powered but it sure would be cool in a oldwarbird. anybody have an idea for a conversion withthe radial im open to suggestions.
happy flying and building,Ty
happy flying and building,Ty
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If your radial puts out comparable power to the 30, you're in business, unless it weighs a ton. Mine balanced perfectly with a 4.8 battery strapped to the rear of the battery compartment. Be sure to add a tailwheel. I added a castering tailwheel that worked well-the tailskid was useless on this plane.
I crashed the P-47 this morning due to pilot error. Thanks to a mudhole, little damage. I was more concerned for the engine than the plane. I disassembled and cleaned it up; now, it's ready to go-into another plane.
I crashed the P-47 this morning due to pilot error. Thanks to a mudhole, little damage. I was more concerned for the engine than the plane. I disassembled and cleaned it up; now, it's ready to go-into another plane.
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If you like cubs, the .30 is perfect for the e-flite cub and it is float ready. I have not got the floats yet but is in the plan. I sure hate you crashed the plane but your rite the engine is themain thing.
Ty
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Surging Saito 82. Mostly in the mid range and when there is little load on the prop, i.e., in level flight. Goes away in a climb and full throttle. Only 10 to 15 fligths on the engine and I've turned the needle valves according to instrucitons found in this thread. It does have a new fuel tank so there is a good chance that has something to do with it. And the engine/tank is on a profile and it does viberate quite a bit. It would be nice to see a list of "try this" before I pull out the rest of my hair!
Thanks
Thanks
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Ihave a Saito 82 on a profile too.
Try thicker foam underyour fueltank, and attach the tank with rubber bands. Don't compress the foam!
Profiles vibrate TERRIBLY!
Try thicker foam underyour fueltank, and attach the tank with rubber bands. Don't compress the foam!
Profiles vibrate TERRIBLY!
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Bob , How is your transition from low to high RPM's ? What prop are you running and what RPM's at WOT ? Is the fuel foaming or getting bubbles in the lines ? What type , grade and how old is the fuel your using ? Did it just start surging or has it done this from the get go ?
I have gottten surging on the top end and it just required retuning the top end . I run the 82 on a mojo40 and it vibrates like crazy . Wondering if my airframe will fall apart before I destroy it myself . Find some dense fuel proof rubber(1/32") and put in between motor mount and fuse dampens it a little . You have to keep a check on the mount bolts for a few flights to ensure they stay tight . Rubber settles a little.
I have gottten surging on the top end and it just required retuning the top end . I run the 82 on a mojo40 and it vibrates like crazy . Wondering if my airframe will fall apart before I destroy it myself . Find some dense fuel proof rubber(1/32") and put in between motor mount and fuse dampens it a little . You have to keep a check on the mount bolts for a few flights to ensure they stay tight . Rubber settles a little.
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The engine is on a Chinn Yak, and tank is on with rubber bands but I think Ineed more foam and maybe the rubber bands are too tight. The transition from low to high is smooth, the high end rpm is/was just under 10k, I've adjusted the needle valve so much I'm not sure where I left it. Cool power, bought last year but just opened this week. It surged a little last year but this year it is much worse. I'm not sure what size prop is on at the moment (the plane is not here) but I'm thinking it is a 14 X4W. Could be bubbles in the line, I"ll remount the fuel tank and give it another go.
My Mojo 60 viberates quite a bit also (Saito 100) but doesn't surge. I find the control horns wear quickly on it and contribute to the drumming noise. Also the covering loosens up... I have a MoAss Mojo almost ready to go, it has been beefed up some in the nose section, hopefully it will be a little more stable...
My Mojo 60 viberates quite a bit also (Saito 100) but doesn't surge. I find the control horns wear quickly on it and contribute to the drumming noise. Also the covering loosens up... I have a MoAss Mojo almost ready to go, it has been beefed up some in the nose section, hopefully it will be a little more stable...
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I'd give horizon a call Bob . That is weird surging in the midrange . Sounds like your motor is fairly new . My is 3 yrs old and just started doing surges on the top end . After I retune it it's fine but it has done it twice . The seal on the intake didn't seem real tight when I fliped the carb 180 deg for the Mojo . So i'm gana do a valve check and get some new o-rings for it .