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As far as glow plugs, I have been using the ones that came with the engine but just changed to OS F. Most people I know recommend them. But as I said I was just curious to see what others were experiencing.
Everyone knows that only dumb question is the one that isn't asked.[sm=72_72.gif]
Thank,
Shubova
[8D]
Everyone knows that only dumb question is the one that isn't asked.[sm=72_72.gif]
Thank,
Shubova
[8D]
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B, the exhaust is 12mm, there was alot of speculation about it being 13mm but it is 12. First time for all synthetic for me or any of my engines except YS.
All, I did my usual 40 minute break in plus 5 minutes.
Prop===Graupner 15x8
Fuel in picture #2
4.000rpm for 10 minutes
5,000rpm for 10 minutes
6,000rpm for 10 minutes
refilled tank and set LS needle, result in picture #1
6,500 rpm for 5 minutes
7,000 rpm for 10 minutes, set HS needle, max rpm 8,500
Pic. #3 grease on rod that scares half the new Saito owners
Pic. #4 Blackish lube from grease on rod
Pic. #5 Clean oil @ 20 minutes
Pic. #6 Clean muffler near ebnd of 45 minutes
Pic. #7@ 6,000 rpm.
This engine was easy to run, started on first backflip, honest. Smooth as silk. Useable, sustainable and repeatable idle after only 20 minutes. Great engine.
PS, it has the big cooliing fins like the latest 1.25
All, I did my usual 40 minute break in plus 5 minutes.
Prop===Graupner 15x8
Fuel in picture #2
4.000rpm for 10 minutes
5,000rpm for 10 minutes
6,000rpm for 10 minutes
refilled tank and set LS needle, result in picture #1
6,500 rpm for 5 minutes
7,000 rpm for 10 minutes, set HS needle, max rpm 8,500
Pic. #3 grease on rod that scares half the new Saito owners
Pic. #4 Blackish lube from grease on rod
Pic. #5 Clean oil @ 20 minutes
Pic. #6 Clean muffler near ebnd of 45 minutes
Pic. #7@ 6,000 rpm.
This engine was easy to run, started on first backflip, honest. Smooth as silk. Useable, sustainable and repeatable idle after only 20 minutes. Great engine.
PS, it has the big cooliing fins like the latest 1.25
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ORIGINAL: balsaeater
have you tried my source for Saito (through LHS agent ) aeronaut.de in germany
http://www.aero-naut.net/355.html?&L=1
this is what they claim
"
Mr. Gen Saito (founder) and aero-naut have started a successful cooperation which made aero-naut an exclusive importer for Germany.
This was the reason to built-up an own service department for SAITO engines having most of the spare parts in stock.
" ( end quote from site http://www.aero-naut.net)
Often shipping costs from Japanese sites can be interestingly low and often as fast when they use Japan postal service( often half the interpostal costs seen in the USA ) instead of using the international more costly outfits like DHL or similar
also others exist
this one is in the UK but postal prices from UK are often horrific often more than double the German prices so you would want to be really desperate to order from the UK
http://www.macgregor.co.uk/saito/saito_spares.htm
http://www.topmodel.fr/
http://www.topmodel.fr/product_detai...2a5cc4&id=5735
This shop " www.TOPMODEL.FR " I know well and is reliable but international postal might be with DHL or similar ( internal french postal charges are reasonable )but the shop owner speaks english well so email and phone questions should be solved easily
Hope some of these links locate the missing spare parts you need
Balsaeater
ORIGINAL: bawls
Horizon is out of stock too....
I'd pay shipping clear from Japan! but cannot find any Japanese sites that have the things.
If I had technical drawings of all the engines, I bet I could find pushrods that would work, and sleeves too. Alas.
This is an issue I shall remember when it's time to buy my next 4-stroke.
Can you blame me?
Horizon is out of stock too....
I'd pay shipping clear from Japan! but cannot find any Japanese sites that have the things.
If I had technical drawings of all the engines, I bet I could find pushrods that would work, and sleeves too. Alas.
This is an issue I shall remember when it's time to buy my next 4-stroke.
Can you blame me?
have you tried my source for Saito (through LHS agent ) aeronaut.de in germany
http://www.aero-naut.net/355.html?&L=1
this is what they claim
"
Mr. Gen Saito (founder) and aero-naut have started a successful cooperation which made aero-naut an exclusive importer for Germany.
This was the reason to built-up an own service department for SAITO engines having most of the spare parts in stock.
" ( end quote from site http://www.aero-naut.net)
Often shipping costs from Japanese sites can be interestingly low and often as fast when they use Japan postal service( often half the interpostal costs seen in the USA ) instead of using the international more costly outfits like DHL or similar
also others exist
this one is in the UK but postal prices from UK are often horrific often more than double the German prices so you would want to be really desperate to order from the UK
http://www.macgregor.co.uk/saito/saito_spares.htm
http://www.topmodel.fr/
http://www.topmodel.fr/product_detai...2a5cc4&id=5735
This shop " www.TOPMODEL.FR " I know well and is reliable but international postal might be with DHL or similar ( internal french postal charges are reasonable )but the shop owner speaks english well so email and phone questions should be solved easily
Hope some of these links locate the missing spare parts you need
Balsaeater
I cannot find a way to contact them, your boys in Germany.
Or a list of parts.
"Unfortunately we cannot provide a delivery of our products directly to the consumer." they say....
Arrgh! Horizon has pushed the expected delivery date back to mid August. It WAS mid July...until today.
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Rus, the fuel usage was terrible on the first 16 oz tank, I barely got through the first 30 minutes of the run in at the rpm listed above. I had the HS needle set at 3 turns out and did not touch the LS needle. The LS needle is about 2.5 turns lean from the factory setting now. The second 16 oz tank lasted twice as long as the first even though the rpm were higher all the way around. I finished it out even though it went past the 45 minute run in and actually ran another 8 oz through it just see if anything changed, nothing did. I wanted to see if the all synthetic lube would cause anything to be different, it didn't. The compression is ABC like, no leakage. The valve lash grew by .001th inch, (on both valves) which is excellent. I have an APC 15x8 mounted on it now and will run it tomorrow. My neighbor lady works from 3:30 AM until 11:30 AM and comes home, watches TV for about an hour and then goes to bed. I don't run engines while she's sleeping. I expected it to be a smaller clone of the 1.25 but that does not appear to be the case. It never offered to quit even though it was set up really rich at first. The pinch test still makes it rev a little before quitting at idle. I doubt the valve lash will change for many hours now.
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Has anybody had any experiance with the new saito FG-36 gasser was looking at it for a new project and cheaper fuel consumption since our nitro has almost double here the last few weeks $100.00 a case UNREAL either go gas or slow down the flyin!!
MADDOG
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On my Saito 1.00 with an APC prop the (1) the shaft doesn't have enough threads to tighten the nuts against the prop and, (2) the shaft is so long the Higley nut won't tighten down to the prop. I've been told to use fender washers, make plywood washers, cut off (shorten) the prop shaft, run the threads down the shaft with a die, etc. Is there any consensus among the Saito gurus as to which method works best? This has probably been discussed somewhere in these four hundred Saito pages maybe someone can point me there.
Thanks.
Bob
Thanks.
Bob
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There are a couple of APC props I have tried on this profile with the Saito 1.00; the 14 X 4W, 15 X 4W. The Xoar props are about 1/2 a millimeter too thin, can't get a good grip unless I use one washer. And none of the props are thick enuf for the Higley lock nut and spinner hub. Things fit a little better on the Saito .82 on the other profile since I cut off 1/4 inch of the prop shaft.
Thanks,
Bob
Thanks,
Bob
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Strangely, the Horizon webpage for the 115 lists all the 125 exhaust parts as replacement/optional parts.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...arts%20Listing
I guess they incorrectly assume that the exhaust is 13mm.
I'd trust Hobbsy over those frackers any day.
I notice they don't even list the Pushrods or pushrod Sleeves.
I'd be tempted to try them on my 125...
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...arts%20Listing
I guess they incorrectly assume that the exhaust is 13mm.
I'd trust Hobbsy over those frackers any day.
I notice they don't even list the Pushrods or pushrod Sleeves.
I'd be tempted to try them on my 125...
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Bob, I assume picture #1 is the problem, that is a Graupner 12x5
Picture #2 is a fairly thick aluminum washer from some engine I no longer have.
#3 is a Tru-Turn backPlate and
#4 is with the Tru-Turn spinner installed.
The Tru-Turn spinner and adapter may be your easiest solution.
Picture #2 is a fairly thick aluminum washer from some engine I no longer have.
#3 is a Tru-Turn backPlate and
#4 is with the Tru-Turn spinner installed.
The Tru-Turn spinner and adapter may be your easiest solution.
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OK B man here is a picture of the 1.15 exhaust hanging loosely in the 1.25, Picture #1
Picture #2 is the huge difference in the actual muffler size.
Picture is the difference in the engines physical size
Picture #4 is the part that troubles me, the 1.15 would bolt in where I removed the 1.00, the 1.25 and the 1.00 will interchange but the 1.15 is different.
Picture #2 is the huge difference in the actual muffler size.
Picture is the difference in the engines physical size
Picture #4 is the part that troubles me, the 1.15 would bolt in where I removed the 1.00, the 1.25 and the 1.00 will interchange but the 1.15 is different.
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Now back to running the 1.15
Prop====APC 15x8
Fuel====WildCat 2 cycle/ 4 cycle 15% nitro and 18% full synthetic.
RPM====8,650
Final idle==Picture #1
With Cline regulator, bulge in tank, Picture #2
This is a smooth, happy running engine that runs rock steady at all speeds, no hick ups, no stumbling or smoking on acceleration. It will idle as long as you want and then some at the rpm shown, but if it will idle there, 2,000 to 2,200 is a piece of cake.
Prop====APC 15x8
Fuel====WildCat 2 cycle/ 4 cycle 15% nitro and 18% full synthetic.
RPM====8,650
Final idle==Picture #1
With Cline regulator, bulge in tank, Picture #2
This is a smooth, happy running engine that runs rock steady at all speeds, no hick ups, no stumbling or smoking on acceleration. It will idle as long as you want and then some at the rpm shown, but if it will idle there, 2,000 to 2,200 is a piece of cake.
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ORIGINAL: bawls
Strangely, the Horizon webpage for the 115 lists all the 125 exhaust parts as replacement/optional parts.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...arts%20Listing
I guess they incorrectly assume that the exhaust is 13mm.
I'd trust Hobbsy over those frackers any day.
I notice they don't even list the Pushrods or pushrod Sleeves.
I'd be tempted to try them on my 125...
Strangely, the Horizon webpage for the 115 lists all the 125 exhaust parts as replacement/optional parts.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...arts%20Listing
I guess they incorrectly assume that the exhaust is 13mm.
I'd trust Hobbsy over those frackers any day.
I notice they don't even list the Pushrods or pushrod Sleeves.
I'd be tempted to try them on my 125...
You are correct. They had me fooled on the data they show on their site. Like you I trust in Hobbsy's word.
Jim
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ORIGINAL: Hobbsy
Bob, I assume picture #1 is the problem, that is a Graupner 12x5
Picture #2 is a fairly thick aluminum washer from some engine I no longer have.
#3 is a Tru-Turn backPlate and
#4 is with the Tru-Turn spinner installed.
The Tru-Turn spinner and adapter may be your easiest solution.
Bob, I assume picture #1 is the problem, that is a Graupner 12x5
Picture #2 is a fairly thick aluminum washer from some engine I no longer have.
#3 is a Tru-Turn backPlate and
#4 is with the Tru-Turn spinner installed.
The Tru-Turn spinner and adapter may be your easiest solution.
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Nice engine collection there, Hobbsy...
I wonder if you'd like to make a quick profit for your pushrods/sleeves on that 125??? :P
I am getting tempted to buy a 115 to use and move the 125 to my next plane...when/if pushrods become available again....
The thing is, that engine is almost too LIGHT! I'd have to add weight to balance. I dislike adding weight...
That power is more than I expected, especially for an engine with such little run time on it.
Seems like a real winner.
I wonder if you'd like to make a quick profit for your pushrods/sleeves on that 125??? :P
I am getting tempted to buy a 115 to use and move the 125 to my next plane...when/if pushrods become available again....
The thing is, that engine is almost too LIGHT! I'd have to add weight to balance. I dislike adding weight...
That power is more than I expected, especially for an engine with such little run time on it.
Seems like a real winner.
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Thanks B, it's still a little short of Horizons 8,800 but I sooth myself by saying they are big proponents of 30% nitro and most likely that is what they use when they determine their "benchmark" rpm. I just figure, I git what I git. In picture #4 above, the mounting lugs and width being different cause a problem with putting the 1.15 on my Senior Tele. I'll post what I work out. I'm going to call Jim and talk TurboHeader for the 1.15.
PS, Apex Hobbies in Tazewell, Va still has an unsold 1.15, at least he did yesterday.
PS, Apex Hobbies in Tazewell, Va still has an unsold 1.15, at least he did yesterday.
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Yes and even that is a stretch because the 1.15 is the new style case with the cam down in the crankcase box, so, I think the only thing in common with the .65/.80/.91 is the mounting footprint. Picture #1 is .91 style case, picture #2 is the 1.15 case.
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Hi guys! I got everything sorted out with my 82 (I think). Its on a cline regulator and seems to be working alright. THe transition is not what I'm looking for with an apc14X4 Wide, but both the high and low needles are still a bit on the rich side for a gallon or so.
I do have a question, though, about the cline regulator. I switched the check valve out for a central hobbies check valve. The tank will maintain pressure when I put my thumb over the exhaust and flip it about 5 times, but after a flight, there is no pressure. I have checked other places for a possible leak, but have not found it tracing back from the exhaust to the tank and forward. Check valve is ok, fuel lines and nipples are ok. Engine runs ok, too so is this normal or should I hear a hiss when I open the vent line after a flight?
I do have a question, though, about the cline regulator. I switched the check valve out for a central hobbies check valve. The tank will maintain pressure when I put my thumb over the exhaust and flip it about 5 times, but after a flight, there is no pressure. I have checked other places for a possible leak, but have not found it tracing back from the exhaust to the tank and forward. Check valve is ok, fuel lines and nipples are ok. Engine runs ok, too so is this normal or should I hear a hiss when I open the vent line after a flight?
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tonight i put the gps in the sundowner with the saito 220. just over 8000 static with a 16x14 apc on 30% heli. winds were barely moving the flag i would say 1 to 2 mph.
i also made sure not to dive at all on the gps flight. the full throttle dive to the centre line of the run way was no more then about 10 degrees.
I had to look twice at the gps... the max recorded speed was 246kph or 146mph.
max fpm was 2174fpm but it starts to run out of steam around 800'.
needles to say i am pretty happy about the speed and the sound is awesome.
one other note the 220 i have has the stock carb, and its the 180 carb.
also at 50% throttle it works out to 1 oz a minite. the plane is a blast to fly but it will snap hard when flying under half throttle with full rates on if you get to heavy on the elevator.
i am on my 6th gallon now and it just keeps getting stronger... ie the lean point keeps moving in alittle more each time its run. and it will finaly idle down with out the glow on... even with the 16x14 but i will still keep the onboard glow system.
also i have upgraded from leather glove to start it to a paint roller... the dam thing kicks so hard when it fires on the back stroke that its jsut to painful. the paint roller has already a few inches shorter
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I cant wait to run the right sized carb on the 220 or as saito calls it the big bore.
.
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ORIGINAL: vince.b
tonight i put the gps in the sundowner with the saito 220. just over 8000 static with a 16x14 apc on 30% heli. winds were barely moving the flag i would say 1 to 2 mph.
i also made sure not to dive at all on the gps flight. the full throttle dive to the centre line of the run way was no more then about 10 degrees.
I had to look twice at the gps... the max recorded speed was 246kph or 146mph.
max fpm was 2174fpm but it starts to run out of steam around 800'.
needles to say i am pretty happy about the speed and the sound is awesome.
<snip>
tonight i put the gps in the sundowner with the saito 220. just over 8000 static with a 16x14 apc on 30% heli. winds were barely moving the flag i would say 1 to 2 mph.
i also made sure not to dive at all on the gps flight. the full throttle dive to the centre line of the run way was no more then about 10 degrees.
I had to look twice at the gps... the max recorded speed was 246kph or 146mph.
max fpm was 2174fpm but it starts to run out of steam around 800'.
needles to say i am pretty happy about the speed and the sound is awesome.
<snip>
What are the specs on this plane sundowner
kit manufactuer ?
or plans?
wing span weight fixed or retract UC etc
maybe even a pic
At those speeds I might choose to copy that theme with the same plane or similar and give me the extra push to buy the 220 to complement my 180
I like my F5D which does ~150mph but a bigger plane could be useful and I don't want to do tempermental pylon 40 or similar to get ~150mph
Balsaeater