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#7751
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Greetings, I've an older FA-45 that probably could stand some internal attention (rebuild)
If I'm going to have it apart I'd like to replace bearings / piston ring / valves / pushrods / anything that moves and wears.
I'm sure replacing all is most likely unnecessary but I'd do it just the same.
Where to find parts??
I've checked Horizon's site and can't find ANY info for the 45's, do they still stock parts??
I've e-mailed them but no response so far.
Thanks For Any Info,
If I'm going to have it apart I'd like to replace bearings / piston ring / valves / pushrods / anything that moves and wears.
I'm sure replacing all is most likely unnecessary but I'd do it just the same.
Where to find parts??
I've checked Horizon's site and can't find ANY info for the 45's, do they still stock parts??
I've e-mailed them but no response so far.
Thanks For Any Info,
#7752
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Thanks, blw, I'll try to persuade my computer to allow me to add to my sig.
I have just read through the instructions that were packaged with the 62a and they specifically instruct the user NOT to use castor! I must admit that I have been running all my OS & ASP 4 strokes on fully sythetic fuels for years without any problems.
David S
I have just read through the instructions that were packaged with the 62a and they specifically instruct the user NOT to use castor! I must admit that I have been running all my OS & ASP 4 strokes on fully sythetic fuels for years without any problems.
David S
#7754
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Certainly, the instructions clearly state: "good quality synthetic oil for glow model airplane with 10 to 20% nitromethane content is recommended [...] the use of castor oil must be avoided, as it tends to accumulate the carbon"
Copied from the 62a instructions that came out of the box less than an hour ago!
David Smith
Copied from the 62a instructions that came out of the box less than an hour ago!
David Smith
#7755
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ORIGINAL: tailskid
Friend had a problem w/ Saito 180....would run great but when set to idle, would quit....ALL the time.....was using Heli 30%.
Changed plugs, messed with low end, high end and all parts in between.... solution - changed to 15% and it idled from the get-go!
Friend had a problem w/ Saito 180....would run great but when set to idle, would quit....ALL the time.....was using Heli 30%.
Changed plugs, messed with low end, high end and all parts in between.... solution - changed to 15% and it idled from the get-go!
-----------
Hi, Jerry.
That kind of flies in the face of logic/past experience. I wonder why?
Ed Cregger
#7756
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ORIGINAL: David Smith
Coolpower not good for Saitos? It's all I have, not even sure I can get anything else here. I haven't used castor in my fuel for at least 10 years. Sitting here unpacking my new 62a as I type.
David Smith, Elimäki, Finland
Coolpower not good for Saitos? It's all I have, not even sure I can get anything else here. I haven't used castor in my fuel for at least 10 years. Sitting here unpacking my new 62a as I type.
David Smith, Elimäki, Finland
--------------
Cool Power is Omega without the castor oil.
You can run Cool Power without a problem as long as you keep the mixture on the rich side (as we all should do with any glow engine), have adequate cooling air and don't overload the engine.
Folks should remember that Saitos no longer use bushings on the connecting rod. Generally, this is not a problem, but a little castor oil in the fuel sure makes me feel better.
Ed Cregger
#7757
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David Smith,
If you tune your .82 properly and fly as you state you will probably be able to get 15 minutes, with reserve, from the 8 ounce tank. At reduced throttle settings a well- tuned .82(or, I suspect, a well-tuned .62) just seems to sip fuel. My flying style must be similar to yours and I easily get two 12 minute flights from 16 ounces with an .82. There is always about 1/4 tank remaining.
Tuning properly is the key.
If you tune your .82 properly and fly as you state you will probably be able to get 15 minutes, with reserve, from the 8 ounce tank. At reduced throttle settings a well- tuned .82(or, I suspect, a well-tuned .62) just seems to sip fuel. My flying style must be similar to yours and I easily get two 12 minute flights from 16 ounces with an .82. There is always about 1/4 tank remaining.
Tuning properly is the key.
#7758
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ORIGINAL: rlmcnii
David Smith,
If you tune your .82 properly and fly as you state you will probably be able to get 15 minutes, with reserve, from the 8 ounce tank. At reduced throttle settings a well- tuned .82(or, I suspect, a well-tuned .62) just seems to sip fuel. My flying style must be similar to yours and I easily get two 12 minute flights from 16 ounces with a .82. There is always about 1/4 tank remaining.
Tuning properly is the key.
David Smith,
If you tune your .82 properly and fly as you state you will probably be able to get 15 minutes, with reserve, from the 8 ounce tank. At reduced throttle settings a well- tuned .82(or, I suspect, a well-tuned .62) just seems to sip fuel. My flying style must be similar to yours and I easily get two 12 minute flights from 16 ounces with a .82. There is always about 1/4 tank remaining.
Tuning properly is the key.
Thanks, I'll stick with the 6oz tank for the 62 (not so easy to change as it just fits in the 4 Star) and use an 8oz for the 82 in the Acrowot. I never liked giving too much fuel a free ride - 50% reserve is more than enough; I rarely fly for more than 10 mins at a time.
#7763
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ORIGINAL: Ed Cregger
-----------
Hi, Jerry.
That kind of flies in the face of logic/past experience. I wonder why?
Ed Cregger
ORIGINAL: tailskid
Friend had a problem w/ Saito 180....would run great but when set to idle, would quit....ALL the time.....was using Heli 30%.
Changed plugs, messed with low end, high end and all parts in between.... solution - changed to 15% and it idled from the get-go!
Friend had a problem w/ Saito 180....would run great but when set to idle, would quit....ALL the time.....was using Heli 30%.
Changed plugs, messed with low end, high end and all parts in between.... solution - changed to 15% and it idled from the get-go!
-----------
Hi, Jerry.
That kind of flies in the face of logic/past experience. I wonder why?
Ed Cregger
#7764
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I checked the instructions in the 82a box (bought at Christmas time in England) and the instructions re fuel are the same as they are for the 62a, BUT there is an extra sheet in the box from the UK importer which directly contradicts the instructions from Saito themselves and advises the use of 20% castor!
As I don't live in the UK and any problems would have to be dealt with by the local importer (and supplier of my 62), I think I will stick to the advice of the manufacturer.
My 4 Star 40 is now ready for the 62a, so I hope to get it running today and flying before the end of the week.
As I don't live in the UK and any problems would have to be dealt with by the local importer (and supplier of my 62), I think I will stick to the advice of the manufacturer.
My 4 Star 40 is now ready for the 62a, so I hope to get it running today and flying before the end of the week.
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ORIGINAL: thrashin
Hi Guys,
Is it essential as per the above post to put the ring gap back in exactly the same position as it was previously? I am under the impression that the ring is free to rotate in it's groove during operation?
Adam.
ORIGINAL: freeonthree
Thats valve timing... with the crank at TDC, the dot on the cam gear goes straight down. You must have yours off a tooth or two. I hold the cam gear with a razor blade as I lower the cam cover into place. Also, the dot on the connecting rod faces the front of the engine. Also, if you ever remove the piston from the cylinder, make sure you put the ring gap back in exactly the same place.
Thats valve timing... with the crank at TDC, the dot on the cam gear goes straight down. You must have yours off a tooth or two. I hold the cam gear with a razor blade as I lower the cam cover into place. Also, the dot on the connecting rod faces the front of the engine. Also, if you ever remove the piston from the cylinder, make sure you put the ring gap back in exactly the same place.
Is it essential as per the above post to put the ring gap back in exactly the same position as it was previously? I am under the impression that the ring is free to rotate in it's groove during operation?
Adam.
Most (if not all ) 4 strokes do not have pinned rings... it's not necessary, because there are no port openings in the sleeve.
#7767
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Bugger, I cant seem to upload the instructions but it says and I quote "for the fuel, good quality synthetic oil for glow engine model airplane with 10 to 20%nitro content is recommended .Since exhaust temperature of fourstroke engine is high, use of castor oil must be avoided, as it tends to accumulate the carbon."
#7768
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ORIGINAL: the pope
Bugger, I cant seem to upload the instructions but it says and I quote "for the fuel, good quality synthetic oil for glow engine model airplane with 10 to 20%nitro content is recommended .Since exhaust temperature of fourstroke engine is high, use of castor oil must be avoided, as it tends to accumulate the carbon."
Bugger, I cant seem to upload the instructions but it says and I quote "for the fuel, good quality synthetic oil for glow engine model airplane with 10 to 20%nitro content is recommended .Since exhaust temperature of fourstroke engine is high, use of castor oil must be avoided, as it tends to accumulate the carbon."
A Saito will run fine with either synth, castor or a blend. However, straight synth will cause your camshaft/lifters to wear more quickly and won't provide much after-run anti-corrosion protection. Straight castor *will* cause a faster build-up of deposits in the engine (mainly in the exhaust valve/port area. A blend of castor/synth therefore is (IMHO) the best compromise.
Just enough castor to protect the cam/lifters but not so much as to cause excessive carbon build-up.
It's simple really.
However, I know there are lots of folks who will prefer to run straight synth. This just means that (no matter how rich they run their engines) their camshafts will wear out quicker and they will probably experience more problems with bearing corrosion (unless a rigorous after-run oil regimen is adhered to).
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ORIGINAL: flycfii
What about the synthetic Omega fuels, which state that no after-run is necessary? Says so right on the bottle.
What about the synthetic Omega fuels, which state that no after-run is necessary? Says so right on the bottle.
Sadly, during the course of history there have been several instances of advertising claims not being borne out by experience with a given product. In any event a teaspoon of ATF, Rislone, etc. is of negligible cost and takes only a minimum of time and effort. Very cheap insurance.
jess
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i have another question about mounting my 100 Saito inverted. i did some test runs(taxi on the runway) with it today IN the airplane and discovered i had a tough time running it without the glow ignitor on. once i leaned it out i was able to get it to run pretty well without it on. so ... for a 100 what or how many turns 'within reason' is in the range. i realize that the manuals say 5 out for first run and then turning down after that. i haven't got a tac just yet but will borrow my father's and test it out. anyway, these engines will run OK without glow driver and being inverted, no?
thanks for any responses!
cheers
thanks for any responses!
cheers
#7775
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ORIGINAL: the pope
Bugger, I cant seem to upload the instructions but it says and I quote "for the fuel, good quality synthetic oil for glow engine model airplane with 10 to 20%nitro content is recommended .Since exhaust temperature of fourstroke engine is high, use of castor oil must be avoided, as it tends to accumulate the carbon."
Bugger, I cant seem to upload the instructions but it says and I quote "for the fuel, good quality synthetic oil for glow engine model airplane with 10 to 20%nitro content is recommended .Since exhaust temperature of fourstroke engine is high, use of castor oil must be avoided, as it tends to accumulate the carbon."
Could have saved yourself the trouble and copied my post from a couple of days ago!
Or maybe I should have waited and copied yours.