Welcome to Club SAITO !
#5576
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The shank on the crank shaft next to the drive hub is 10mm the threaded part is 8mm
10 mm is .393" or something just a little over 25/64"
Here is a very nice metric reamer
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXEGH6&P=ML
10 mm is .393" or something just a little over 25/64"
Here is a very nice metric reamer
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXEGH6&P=ML
#5578
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All:
Here are the new members through page 201, I am still behind. Obviously. Don't give up hope, I'll get your number soon.
397 bjnginge
398 Bill Martovich
399 ericrcpilot
400 shesha
401 Luxuswaffe
402 zayzay1
403 gooseF22
404 bigedmustafa
405 kochj
406 Garthwood
407 sundancer007
408 fanis-10
409 RCSPORT FLYER
410 Zombie
411 krosypal
412 the D man
413 fuelburner
414 alpinestar
415 Jimmy Hoffa
416 rclement
417 Birman
418 GunMoney
419 l.wilber
Bill.
Here are the new members through page 201, I am still behind. Obviously. Don't give up hope, I'll get your number soon.
397 bjnginge
398 Bill Martovich
399 ericrcpilot
400 shesha
401 Luxuswaffe
402 zayzay1
403 gooseF22
404 bigedmustafa
405 kochj
406 Garthwood
407 sundancer007
408 fanis-10
409 RCSPORT FLYER
410 Zombie
411 krosypal
412 the D man
413 fuelburner
414 alpinestar
415 Jimmy Hoffa
416 rclement
417 Birman
418 GunMoney
419 l.wilber
Bill.
#5579
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ORIGINAL: imattr
w8ye,
Thanks for the info, I quess I'll have to get a 10 mm metric sized reamer.
Cheers...
w8ye,
Thanks for the info, I quess I'll have to get a 10 mm metric sized reamer.
Cheers...
#5580
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[/quote]
I would recommed the precision prop reamer from GP http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXEGH6&P=ML It's the best I've used and always gives a precise fit. I use a cordless drill with it.
[/quote]
I agree with rajul. The GP reamer cuts cleanly and is very precise. Plus, it has a stylish red plastic case!
I don't remember who made my old reamer, but I gave it several derogatory names before I tossed it.
#5581
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I have all Fox reamers and they are still sharp after 15 years. I use them by hand mostly but occasionally chuck one up in my drill press set to its lowest speed.
#5582
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Gentlemen:
I just ran a comb filter through the Club Saito roster, and found three people I had assigned two member numbers. I have blanked the names in the higher numbers, they will be reasigned.
The three members and their correct (lower) numbers are:
372 dutchalltheway
341 ericrcpilot
107 Stiffe
Please take note, and don't beat on me too hard.
Bill.
I just ran a comb filter through the Club Saito roster, and found three people I had assigned two member numbers. I have blanked the names in the higher numbers, they will be reasigned.
The three members and their correct (lower) numbers are:
372 dutchalltheway
341 ericrcpilot
107 Stiffe
Please take note, and don't beat on me too hard.
Bill.
#5583
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Addition - I note "barber 701" has changed his username to "WRM." The roster file has been changed to show WRM as the name, his member number stays 382.
Bill.
Bill.
#5584
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Dancer:
Sorry it's taken me so long to address your front bearing leakage, in your post #5275 on page 211.
I have also gotten an email about the same problem.
Leakage through the front bearing seals will obviously wash the factory lubricant out of the bearing, and while this may not affect the bearing life we got the sealed bearing so the engine would stay clean. Or at least not as messy.
I am forwarding both the email and your post to Paul at RC_Bearings, we will see what he says.
Bill.
Sorry it's taken me so long to address your front bearing leakage, in your post #5275 on page 211.
I have also gotten an email about the same problem.
Leakage through the front bearing seals will obviously wash the factory lubricant out of the bearing, and while this may not affect the bearing life we got the sealed bearing so the engine would stay clean. Or at least not as messy.
I am forwarding both the email and your post to Paul at RC_Bearings, we will see what he says.
Bill.
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Just got a really fast reply from Paul (Thanks, Paul) -
Paul and RC_Bearings are still tops in my book.
Bill.
Bill,
Anyone who is having problems should contact me. I have had some seal leakage problems with some bearings and I am trying to get to the bottom of it. I don’t think it is a quality issue but rather the type of seal. There are several seal types from hard contact seals to non-contact seals. The kind I have been using are between those. The reason I did that was for lower drag. Maybe the Saitos just don’t like those as other engines seem fine with them.
I just sent a message to my supplier regarding this problem. What I will be looking for is a stronger seal for these bearings.
I just called another customer and asked him to try something. I asked him to take the seal from his stock Saito bearing and install it in the replacement bearing I sent him. He said it fit perfectly. This may be a short-term solution until I can get better seals.
Anyone who is having problems should contact me. I have had some seal leakage problems with some bearings and I am trying to get to the bottom of it. I don’t think it is a quality issue but rather the type of seal. There are several seal types from hard contact seals to non-contact seals. The kind I have been using are between those. The reason I did that was for lower drag. Maybe the Saitos just don’t like those as other engines seem fine with them.
I just sent a message to my supplier regarding this problem. What I will be looking for is a stronger seal for these bearings.
I just called another customer and asked him to try something. I asked him to take the seal from his stock Saito bearing and install it in the replacement bearing I sent him. He said it fit perfectly. This may be a short-term solution until I can get better seals.
Bill.
#5586
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All:
In order to prevent having one huge post with a lot of names on it,, here's an update to the added members through page 213.
377 Rush7
399 Jerryballs
235 jb86
420 Big Davo
421 jb86
422 flivver
423 KenVC
424 resedaguy818
425 imfly123
426 MaxxGS
427 happypappy
428 paul7194
429 HarryJ
430 izane
431 Johnmpa
432 bohelle
433 swattley
434 dadanic
435 Tripp2loo
436 Flyer2k5
437 octanehuffer
438 Geoffinpdx
Welcome all.
Note the lower numbers for the first three, they are the ones that had duplicated names.
Bill.
In order to prevent having one huge post with a lot of names on it,, here's an update to the added members through page 213.
377 Rush7
399 Jerryballs
235 jb86
420 Big Davo
421 jb86
422 flivver
423 KenVC
424 resedaguy818
425 imfly123
426 MaxxGS
427 happypappy
428 paul7194
429 HarryJ
430 izane
431 Johnmpa
432 bohelle
433 swattley
434 dadanic
435 Tripp2loo
436 Flyer2k5
437 octanehuffer
438 Geoffinpdx
Welcome all.
Note the lower numbers for the first three, they are the ones that had duplicated names.
Bill.
#5587
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Jettpilot posed a question that may interest many here - how do the fragile ceramic balls get inserted without damage?
With the ball cage out a normal ball bearing can have all the balls moved to one side, and fill just a little bit more than 1/2 the circle. Then, with a little warming of the outer race it will all pop apart, or together, without hurting the balls. The cage is inserted as the final step of assembly.
Bill.
With the ball cage out a normal ball bearing can have all the balls moved to one side, and fill just a little bit more than 1/2 the circle. Then, with a little warming of the outer race it will all pop apart, or together, without hurting the balls. The cage is inserted as the final step of assembly.
Bill.
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[b]OK, here are the rest of the new members. Finally up to date. Whew!
439 Adam G
440 greg palmer
441 edkoz
442 wiz310
443 DaveMcFarlane
444 Campy
445 a1pcfixer
446 diz
447 acrojack202
448 avf
449 JustErik
450 imattr
And welcome to all.
Bill.
PS: JustErik: since there were only 448 members before you that cuts the pooh out of your cost for fuel to the prior members. Haw. wr.
439 Adam G
440 greg palmer
441 edkoz
442 wiz310
443 DaveMcFarlane
444 Campy
445 a1pcfixer
446 diz
447 acrojack202
448 avf
449 JustErik
450 imattr
And welcome to all.
Bill.
PS: JustErik: since there were only 448 members before you that cuts the pooh out of your cost for fuel to the prior members. Haw. wr.
#5589
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Gentlemen, and mainly addressed to the new members, I am still making Saito Notes available to all who request them.
Saito Notes is a general compendium of all advice and comments in the Club Saito thread, it's long, but a lot faster to read than the entire thread. And it's all in one file. Latest version is dated 11/06/06.
Anyone who would like a copy can send me their email address (PM wont do) and I'll send it. Pease don't post your address in open forum, that just attracts spam. Send it either by PM (PM works for that) or click the email button on any of my posts. You do need to have your address in the body of your note.
Once you have gotten a copy I add your address to the Saito Roster, for future updates you need only to ask.
Of our current 450 listed members I have a total of 68 addresses, one is mine and one is a member who has been banned from RCU. So, in effect I have only 66 addresses. The banned member may be let back in, I've not cancelled his number.
Please note I do not publish these addresses, you have no worry there.
Anyway, new members, if you want to save a lot of reading time, or wouldn't read the whole thread anyway, give me a shout.
Bill.
Saito Notes is a general compendium of all advice and comments in the Club Saito thread, it's long, but a lot faster to read than the entire thread. And it's all in one file. Latest version is dated 11/06/06.
Anyone who would like a copy can send me their email address (PM wont do) and I'll send it. Pease don't post your address in open forum, that just attracts spam. Send it either by PM (PM works for that) or click the email button on any of my posts. You do need to have your address in the body of your note.
Once you have gotten a copy I add your address to the Saito Roster, for future updates you need only to ask.
Of our current 450 listed members I have a total of 68 addresses, one is mine and one is a member who has been banned from RCU. So, in effect I have only 66 addresses. The banned member may be let back in, I've not cancelled his number.
Please note I do not publish these addresses, you have no worry there.
Anyway, new members, if you want to save a lot of reading time, or wouldn't read the whole thread anyway, give me a shout.
Bill.
#5590
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Addendum:
When you send your email address please include your RCU name - otherwise it can be really difficult to know where to put the address in the file, if not impossible.
Thanks.
Bill.
When you send your email address please include your RCU name - otherwise it can be really difficult to know where to put the address in the file, if not impossible.
Thanks.
Bill.
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ORIGINAL: William Robison
Jettpilot posed a question that may interest many here - how do the fragile ceramic balls get inserted without damage?
With the ball cage out a normal ball bearing can have all the balls moved to one side, and fill just a little bit more than 1/2 the circle. Then, with a little warming of the outer race it will all pop apart, or together, without hurting the balls. The cage is inserted as the final step of assembly.
Bill.
Jettpilot posed a question that may interest many here - how do the fragile ceramic balls get inserted without damage?
With the ball cage out a normal ball bearing can have all the balls moved to one side, and fill just a little bit more than 1/2 the circle. Then, with a little warming of the outer race it will all pop apart, or together, without hurting the balls. The cage is inserted as the final step of assembly.
Bill.
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ORIGINAL: RC-Bearings
Thanks, Bill. For everyone's information, the balls are actually LESS fragile than steel balls. Their modulus of stiffness is about three times as high as steel. What that means is they can take three times as much pressure as steel before they permanently deform. So, anything that will break a ceramic ball will flatten a steel ball. If you are not hurting your steel balls, you are less than 1/3rd of the way to hurting a ceramic ball.
ORIGINAL: William Robison
Jettpilot posed a question that may interest many here - how do the fragile ceramic balls get inserted without damage?
With the ball cage out a normal ball bearing can have all the balls moved to one side, and fill just a little bit more than 1/2 the circle. Then, with a little warming of the outer race it will all pop apart, or together, without hurting the balls. The cage is inserted as the final step of assembly.
Bill.
Jettpilot posed a question that may interest many here - how do the fragile ceramic balls get inserted without damage?
With the ball cage out a normal ball bearing can have all the balls moved to one side, and fill just a little bit more than 1/2 the circle. Then, with a little warming of the outer race it will all pop apart, or together, without hurting the balls. The cage is inserted as the final step of assembly.
Bill.
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#5593
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ORIGINAL: JettPilot
Here is a question,
I just got my ceramic bearings for my Saito 82 ... I have been reading how fragile these are, and to not even think about tapping the crank in which makes this question come to mind. If they are so fragile, how did they possibly get the bearings in the races without damaging them ?
Which came first, the bearing or the races [sm=confused.gif]
JettPilot
Here is a question,
I just got my ceramic bearings for my Saito 82 ... I have been reading how fragile these are, and to not even think about tapping the crank in which makes this question come to mind. If they are so fragile, how did they possibly get the bearings in the races without damaging them ?
Which came first, the bearing or the races [sm=confused.gif]
JettPilot
Bearings should never be installed by tapping the crank regardless of what they are made of. This risks denting the races as well as the balls if the balls are steel. Bearings installed in a crankcase should be installed by heating the crankcase until the bearing will slide in with no pressure. It should not take more than 300 F to achieve this.
I also would like to know who is saying that ceramic bearings are so fragile and why.
#5594
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Thanks for the reply, Paul, but we can still ding the races with careless installation. I guess that's what hppens when a brand new bearing is noisy on first run.
And strange as it may seem, new bearings are easier to damage than they are after running a while. Stainless steel exhibits a property known as "Work hardening," that means the running surface of a used SS bearing is stronger than a new one. This DOES NOT apply to an ordinary steel raced bearing.
Bill.
And strange as it may seem, new bearings are easier to damage than they are after running a while. Stainless steel exhibits a property known as "Work hardening," that means the running surface of a used SS bearing is stronger than a new one. This DOES NOT apply to an ordinary steel raced bearing.
Bill.
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ORIGINAL: William Robison
Thanks for the reply, Paul, but we can still ding the races with careless installation. I guess that's what hppens when a brand new bearing is noisy on first run.
And strange as it may seem, new bearings are easier to damage than they are after running a while. Stainless steel exhibits a property known as "Work hardening," that means the running surface of a used SS bearing is stronger than a new one. This DOES NOT apply to an ordinary steel raced bearing.
Bill.
Thanks for the reply, Paul, but we can still ding the races with careless installation. I guess that's what hppens when a brand new bearing is noisy on first run.
And strange as it may seem, new bearings are easier to damage than they are after running a while. Stainless steel exhibits a property known as "Work hardening," that means the running surface of a used SS bearing is stronger than a new one. This DOES NOT apply to an ordinary steel raced bearing.
Bill.
Bearing steels, even stainless 440, are hardened to Rockwell 60, which is some fairly hard steel. If they are getting dented during installation, then the procedure needs to be looked at. I think I am going to have some installation tools made for the common size bearings to aid installation by people who do it a lot (myself included!). I used to use some of these tools when I was a mechanic many decades ago.
#5597
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It has been a very long time since I've posted a complete member list, and posting 450 members with normal text entries would be 'way too big. So, here are three screen shots of the alphabetic listing, took three to make the letters big enough to read.
Check through, make sure you're on the list, if you see any duplicates please ring my bell.
Bill.
Check through, make sure you're on the list, if you see any duplicates please ring my bell.
Bill.
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ORIGINAL: RC-Bearings
.......I think I am going to have some installation tools made for the common size bearings to aid installation by people who do it a lot (myself included!). I used to use some of these tools when I was a mechanic many decades ago.
.......I think I am going to have some installation tools made for the common size bearings to aid installation by people who do it a lot (myself included!). I used to use some of these tools when I was a mechanic many decades ago.
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WELL>> I have been asked to rebuild a Saito 180. It's time to tinker again.. I got it apart and waiting on NEW Ceramic bearings to arrive!
LATER and pics included..
LATER and pics included..
#5600
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ORIGINAL: rajul
This will be nice. Keep us informed
ORIGINAL: RC-Bearings
.......I think I am going to have some installation tools made for the common size bearings to aid installation by people who do it a lot (myself included!). I used to use some of these tools when I was a mechanic many decades ago.
.......I think I am going to have some installation tools made for the common size bearings to aid installation by people who do it a lot (myself included!). I used to use some of these tools when I was a mechanic many decades ago.