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If you remember back sometime I was having trouble with my 125. Well I sent it back to Saito for service and low and behold they tell me it is a carburetor issue and it is being repaired. Also, according to the service dept. the carb is not the same as on the 100 but a different design. I wonder if they are having problems? My friend has the same engine and is experienceing the same trouble I have. I checked the carb parts lists for both the 100 and 125 to see if they are actually different but they seem to be the same. Are they giving me a snow job?
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Bill & Tim,
Manufacturing costs are about the same between large and small engines. The same machining and finishing operations, assembly labor, packaging are required. Material costs is the only difference, and that should be minuscule (common metals don't cost much). The only potentially help is higher sales volume with smaller engines, but that is probably not happening (with "going to electrics"). Then there is the "Made in China" factor also. It is not hard to understand that Siato was cutting corners to keep profit margins up on small engines (and concentrating on the high end business now).
My 30 did not come with a single gasket (not even valve cover gaskets that aparrently are available as replacement). It also has an air-bleed mixture control (not that it is any less effective).
I haven't had the chance to run mine after adjusting gear mesh. I don't expect there to be any running difference, except for perhaps a little less gear noise (which cannot be heard over the rest of the running engine noises).
Different subject - Lone Pines CA is in close proximitry to, and in between the highest and the lowest points in continental US. I had the occasion to drive through Death Valley and up to Mt Whitney a few years ago in August. Lone Pine was a NICE oasis from the extreme heat and the rather cool Whitney trail head!
Philip
Manufacturing costs are about the same between large and small engines. The same machining and finishing operations, assembly labor, packaging are required. Material costs is the only difference, and that should be minuscule (common metals don't cost much). The only potentially help is higher sales volume with smaller engines, but that is probably not happening (with "going to electrics"). Then there is the "Made in China" factor also. It is not hard to understand that Siato was cutting corners to keep profit margins up on small engines (and concentrating on the high end business now).
My 30 did not come with a single gasket (not even valve cover gaskets that aparrently are available as replacement). It also has an air-bleed mixture control (not that it is any less effective).
I haven't had the chance to run mine after adjusting gear mesh. I don't expect there to be any running difference, except for perhaps a little less gear noise (which cannot be heard over the rest of the running engine noises).
Different subject - Lone Pines CA is in close proximitry to, and in between the highest and the lowest points in continental US. I had the occasion to drive through Death Valley and up to Mt Whitney a few years ago in August. Lone Pine was a NICE oasis from the extreme heat and the rather cool Whitney trail head!
Philip
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All:
I nave never seen a Saito with a gasket between the cylinder and the crank case. The design of the engine is such that any thickness variation in a gasket would cause an angular variation between the cylinder and the case, possibly to the point of uneven wear or binding the piston. Also, uneven tightening of the cylinder retainer screws could do the same thing. I suspect the one Jim found had been added by an owner trying to lower the compression. Bad idea. A metal compression plate could be used, but not a fiber gasket.
Jpal:
I know of no carb change on the FA-125, but Horizon could still be telling you “Like it is,” tolerances could have added to make yours out of specification. Be happy they are willing to correct it.
Kim:
To lower the compression on the older engine can be done several different ways. Absolutely the best is to buy a new cylinder and valve springs. If the engine is high time you may want a new piston ring as well. Everything else will interchange, and can be reused.
This might seem an expensive way to do it, but you will also have a much lighter engine after the replacement.
An easily reversible lowering of the compression can be done by cutting a “Gasket” for the cylinder from aluminum, you can try different thicknesses and test the results. This is what I referred to earlier as a “Compression plate.”
You can also get your Dremel out and cut the combustion chamber “Stuffings” out. I did this on one cylinder, I really don’t think it was worth the trouble.
Picture attached shows the ABC on the left, note the bronze valve seats, AAC on the right.
Bill.
I nave never seen a Saito with a gasket between the cylinder and the crank case. The design of the engine is such that any thickness variation in a gasket would cause an angular variation between the cylinder and the case, possibly to the point of uneven wear or binding the piston. Also, uneven tightening of the cylinder retainer screws could do the same thing. I suspect the one Jim found had been added by an owner trying to lower the compression. Bad idea. A metal compression plate could be used, but not a fiber gasket.
Jpal:
I know of no carb change on the FA-125, but Horizon could still be telling you “Like it is,” tolerances could have added to make yours out of specification. Be happy they are willing to correct it.
Kim:
To lower the compression on the older engine can be done several different ways. Absolutely the best is to buy a new cylinder and valve springs. If the engine is high time you may want a new piston ring as well. Everything else will interchange, and can be reused.
This might seem an expensive way to do it, but you will also have a much lighter engine after the replacement.
An easily reversible lowering of the compression can be done by cutting a “Gasket” for the cylinder from aluminum, you can try different thicknesses and test the results. This is what I referred to earlier as a “Compression plate.”
You can also get your Dremel out and cut the combustion chamber “Stuffings” out. I did this on one cylinder, I really don’t think it was worth the trouble.
Picture attached shows the ABC on the left, note the bronze valve seats, AAC on the right.
Bill.
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[/b]
Kim:
Your limit will be the valve adjusting screws. S you raise the cylinder the screws will have to go an equal distance further through the rockers to get the valve lash right. Probably somewhere around 0.060” will be the most you can use.
With that in mind I’d cut one plate at 0.020” and one at 0.040”, then you can use them singly, and together you will have 0.060” thickness to try.
But why do you want to do it? The high compression version runs great up to 15% nitro, that should be enough for anybody.
Bill.
Kim:
Your limit will be the valve adjusting screws. S you raise the cylinder the screws will have to go an equal distance further through the rockers to get the valve lash right. Probably somewhere around 0.060” will be the most you can use.
With that in mind I’d cut one plate at 0.020” and one at 0.040”, then you can use them singly, and together you will have 0.060” thickness to try.
But why do you want to do it? The high compression version runs great up to 15% nitro, that should be enough for anybody.
Bill.
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Aside from my troubles with the 125, I now have another problem. Today my 100 started making a weird kind of clanking or jingling noise. I immediately shut it down, at first I thought my aluminum spinner came loose but that wasn't it. Any thoughts?
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Jpal:
Pop the backplate and look at the ball retainer in the rear bearing as you turn the crank. Might not have to turn the crank.
Bill.
Pop the backplate and look at the ball retainer in the rear bearing as you turn the crank. Might not have to turn the crank.
Bill.
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Does anyone know of any problems with connecting rods on satio .82's . I have about a 1/2 gal of fuel through mine and tonight it started rattling and before I could bring it in it shut off and started free wheeling and inspection shows no compression and I think the rod is broken.I was not trying to play RPM king with the motor it was not leaned out or over propped .
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Hey everyone, I have a quick question. I have a Saito 220 on Carl Goldberg Extra. The thing is it is way too quiet, so is there a good after market pipe on the market, or can I make my own? I have never made my own pipe what is good material to use ? Thanks
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Four strokes are not as responsive to pipes as are two strokes.
The engine will not make any more noise with a "pipe" on it.
Saito makes a flexible pipe for this engine
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...dID=SAI220A143
The engine will not make any more noise with a "pipe" on it.
Saito makes a flexible pipe for this engine
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...dID=SAI220A143
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They looked like they fit ok as far as that's concerned. I did notice the rocker arm slightly moving side to side, maybe .020 at the very most. The other one did not have any side to side movement. I re-set the valve gap to .0005 and started it and set the high end and adjusted the low end as well. Seemed to run nicely with a good smoke trail. I'll run a tank through it at various throttle settings tomorrow and then check the gap again. There is one thing that I did notice. As I said, I got this engine used, when I checked a parts lising online a little bit ago, I saw listed a couple gaskets for the rocker covers that were not on there when I initially removed them. Are those necessary ? I would suspect so. Does someone have the part number for those ? it's a saito .91S Thanks in advance
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Saito makes a flexible pipe for this engine
I purchased a flexible pipe for a Saito 82 and the pipe does not have any pressure nipple for the fuel tank. (I actually got [link]http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SAI65111[/link] ). Is this a good time to use a Perry Pump like [link]http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDG61&P=7[/link] or connect a nipple somehow?
I am new to both the flex pipe and Perry Pump.
Thanks
Al
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Al:
Send your pipe back and exchange it. Two versions are available, one with and one without a pressure tap. You got the wrong one.
Flexible Exhaust Pipe,Right
$40.79 [SAI182TD1112]
This is one with a tap, but it comes straight and does not have the elbow at the engine end. There’s also one similar to yours (with the bend) with the tap, you can get either.
Bill.
Send your pipe back and exchange it. Two versions are available, one with and one without a pressure tap. You got the wrong one.
Flexible Exhaust Pipe,Right
$40.79 [SAI182TD1112]
This is one with a tap, but it comes straight and does not have the elbow at the engine end. There’s also one similar to yours (with the bend) with the tap, you can get either.
Bill.
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The valve cover gaskets will cost you $4.50 plus postage. This is a complete gasket set for the 91.
The engine will run perfectly well without them though it will make a mess.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=SAI91S32A
The engine will run perfectly well without them though it will make a mess.
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...odID=SAI91S32A
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Jim,
On the valve cover gasket, is there any backflow of oil from the crackcase, going through the pushrod guide into the valve cover? Is this the "mess" you're refering to? Just wondering why there's a need for valve cover gaskets in the first place.
On the valve cover gasket, is there any backflow of oil from the crackcase, going through the pushrod guide into the valve cover? Is this the "mess" you're refering to? Just wondering why there's a need for valve cover gaskets in the first place.
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ORIGINAL: William Robison
Al:
Send your pipe back and exchange it. Two versions are available, one with and one without a pressure tap. You got the wrong one.
Flexible Exhaust Pipe,Right
$40.79 [SAI182TD1112]
This is one with a tap, but it comes straight and does not have the elbow at the engine end. There’s also one similar to yours (with the bend) with the tap, you can get either.
Bill.
Al:
Send your pipe back and exchange it. Two versions are available, one with and one without a pressure tap. You got the wrong one.
Flexible Exhaust Pipe,Right
$40.79 [SAI182TD1112]
This is one with a tap, but it comes straight and does not have the elbow at the engine end. There’s also one similar to yours (with the bend) with the tap, you can get either.
Bill.
I found the one you mention but it is 14mm, not 12mm. Is that the diameter of the pipe and not the thread? I guessed it to be the thread and backed off it when ordered. I also found:
[link]http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=SAI450R3D1112[/link]
However nothing is mentioned about thread size / compatibility with an 82.
Thanks
Al
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P 47,
The exhaust on a 82 is 12mm. The pipe you are asking about has 14mm threads.
14 mm is the 120,150,180 engines.
Rajul,
Some Saito's seem to have a lot of oil in the valve cover area and others almost none.
An inverted engine would tend to have oil in the valve covers.
The exhaust on a 82 is 12mm. The pipe you are asking about has 14mm threads.
14 mm is the 120,150,180 engines.
Rajul,
Some Saito's seem to have a lot of oil in the valve cover area and others almost none.
An inverted engine would tend to have oil in the valve covers.