Welcome to Club SAITO !
#3227
Banned
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Tokoroa, , NEW ZEALAND
Posts: 3,848
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ORIGINAL: William Robison
Your engine uses solid steel push rods, they can be straightened - there's no need to replace them.
Your engine uses solid steel push rods, they can be straightened - there's no need to replace them.
I'll have a go at straightening them but I'd like to replace them either way -- the only problem is that Horizon doesn't ship outside North America and there's no Saito dealer here in NZ. I'm wondering if I PayPal'd the money to someone here, whether they could get me a set of tubes/rods and airmail them to me. I'm happy to add a bit to cover their time if someone can go out of their way to do this for me.
If someone can help, just drop me a PM.
#3228
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Mary Esther, Florida, FL
Posts: 20,205
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
13 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Xjet:
I had similar problems when EHFleming and I were doing the Super Duellist – the European orders were a pain. If you have no other practical source I can get involved again I suppose.
Prices to me here in the USA:
Pushrod (2): $4.99 SAI10039]
Pushrod Covers w/ Seals: $9.99 SAI10040
Add Horizon’s standard shipping charge of $7.99 the total is US $22.oo, or it’s US $21.97 if you’re picky.
I am about to make an order to Horizon for myself, so I’ll eat the S&H charge, but if you include it the postage from here to you will be at least partially covered.
You’ll need to check with NZ customs to get the best rate for whatever we label the box. Some places have no duty below a certain value, some have zero charge for parts to repair existing equipment, and so forth.
Whatever, if you want me to get these bits for you send me a PM or email confirming, we can work from there.
Bill.
I had similar problems when EHFleming and I were doing the Super Duellist – the European orders were a pain. If you have no other practical source I can get involved again I suppose.
Prices to me here in the USA:
Pushrod (2): $4.99 SAI10039]
Pushrod Covers w/ Seals: $9.99 SAI10040
Add Horizon’s standard shipping charge of $7.99 the total is US $22.oo, or it’s US $21.97 if you’re picky.
I am about to make an order to Horizon for myself, so I’ll eat the S&H charge, but if you include it the postage from here to you will be at least partially covered.
You’ll need to check with NZ customs to get the best rate for whatever we label the box. Some places have no duty below a certain value, some have zero charge for parts to repair existing equipment, and so forth.
Whatever, if you want me to get these bits for you send me a PM or email confirming, we can work from there.
Bill.
#3230
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Mary Esther, Florida, FL
Posts: 20,205
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
13 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Bruce:
Again you need to read more carefully.
We have a user in New Zealand with no local outlet for Saito parts, begging for help.
My offer is not to sell, but to act as a middleman in his purchase.
Go change a glow plug. Or something.
Bill.
Again you need to read more carefully.
We have a user in New Zealand with no local outlet for Saito parts, begging for help.
My offer is not to sell, but to act as a middleman in his purchase.
Go change a glow plug. Or something.
Bill.
#3232
Banned
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Gee, I guess that makes all retailers the middleman. Distributor, retailer, then the customer. Horizon is the distributor, you are the retailer, and xjet is the customer. I can read quite well, thank you. You just have a low profit margin.
Oh, and Gary, I don't need a glow plug. I have dozens of them.
Here's another thought, Bill. Someone must distrubute Saito engines in New Zealand as he bought it there. They probably have parts and service for them too. They do in Australia which is just across the water west of New Zealand.
You see, Bill, I offered to do the same thing for another member. He needed a set of instructions. I just wanted shipping money. One of our illustrious moderators deleted the post because it is against the rules to sell on the forum. I was told use email or private message. Guess this place is like "animal farm", some of the members are more equal than others. Some of us just ain't the pigs.
Oh, and Gary, I don't need a glow plug. I have dozens of them.
Here's another thought, Bill. Someone must distrubute Saito engines in New Zealand as he bought it there. They probably have parts and service for them too. They do in Australia which is just across the water west of New Zealand.
You see, Bill, I offered to do the same thing for another member. He needed a set of instructions. I just wanted shipping money. One of our illustrious moderators deleted the post because it is against the rules to sell on the forum. I was told use email or private message. Guess this place is like "animal farm", some of the members are more equal than others. Some of us just ain't the pigs.
#3233
Banned
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If he bought the engine in New Zealand there must be a distributor in New Zaeland. If there is they must have parts availability or know where he can get parts.
My plugs don't need changing. I use Enya glow plugs and they last a loooooonnngggg time.
I don't need any glow plugs. I have a lifetime supply.
Some content removed by moderator....
My plugs don't need changing. I use Enya glow plugs and they last a loooooonnngggg time.
I don't need any glow plugs. I have a lifetime supply.
Some content removed by moderator....
#3234
![](/forum/images/badges/premium_vendor.png)
My Feedback: (3)
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I've shipped quite a bit to Europe and never had the boxes opened for customs or duty taxes. Bill is right about the limit but this is so low that I would toss in a magazine, or something similar and label the contents as a gift of really low value.
#3235
Senior Member
My Feedback: (32)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Cottonwood,
AZ
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have a 180 saito already broke in installed on a World Model CAP 232 1/4 scale. This is an arf that I purchased from an associate flown one time. He stated that the plane was not what he expected with the saito 150. What prop should I use and what is thge recommended fuel. I have the manual and it states 15% with 20% oil. However I have been told to use 20% nitro and 118% oil. I am new to 3D. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
Ron
Ron
#3236
![](/forum/images/badges/trading_plus_member.png)
My Feedback: (22)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Jefferson,
MO
Posts: 655
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I need help! I bought a used Saito FA 45. Before I ran it I took the backplate off, the head (yes the Head is removable) and the cam box to clean it up. I put is back together and put is on my Eagle. It struggled to get if off the ground but it idled good and had good transition. Fast forward, I have a plane with an old OS 40 in it and it would run circles around the 45. I knew this could not be right so I started looking at the 45. I have a FA 56 also so I took the valve covers off both engines and started comparing the timing. Come to find out the 45 had the cam in wrong. Is it possible for these Saito's to run one tooth off?
#3237
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Mary Esther, Florida, FL
Posts: 20,205
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
13 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
T-Ron:
As I said in the other thread, I think the 18x4 is not enough prop for your FA-180. An 18x6 should be better.
I'm having excellent results with the Omega 15% fuel. Whatever you use, please be sure it has 3-4% minimum castor oil. Many people swear that 30% nitro is best, but I've never seen the need for more than the 15%.
And you are in, you are member number 293. Welcome to the asylum.
Bill.
As I said in the other thread, I think the 18x4 is not enough prop for your FA-180. An 18x6 should be better.
I'm having excellent results with the Omega 15% fuel. Whatever you use, please be sure it has 3-4% minimum castor oil. Many people swear that 30% nitro is best, but I've never seen the need for more than the 15%.
And you are in, you are member number 293. Welcome to the asylum.
Bill.
#3238
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Mary Esther, Florida, FL
Posts: 20,205
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
13 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Kimhoff:
The Saitos will run with the cam one tooth off either way. Advanced they wont idle well at all, but do fairly well at top end. Retarded has a great idle, but no power. As you have just found out.
Bill.
The Saitos will run with the cam one tooth off either way. Advanced they wont idle well at all, but do fairly well at top end. Retarded has a great idle, but no power. As you have just found out.
Bill.
#3241
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Mary Esther, Florida, FL
Posts: 20,205
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
13 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Ron:
The "Other thread" is the one you started about your FA-180
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4301860/tm.htm
I don't currently have a 180 in a plane.
Bill.
The "Other thread" is the one you started about your FA-180
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4301860/tm.htm
I don't currently have a 180 in a plane.
Bill.
#3242
Junior Member
My Feedback: (8)
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Hackettstown,
NJ
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hey Guys
I'm a new guy to this thread and hopefully one of you can help me. I just put a Dave Patrick Ultimate together and used a Saito 150 on it mounted inverted. It's giving us fits trying to get it running right. I think we have tried about everything. Changes in tank elevation, new OS 4 stroke plug, prop sizes, low speed settings, high speed settings, but we can't get it to either stay running or run right.
Can someone tell me what else I can try ? I'd really appreciate it.
Wally
I'm a new guy to this thread and hopefully one of you can help me. I just put a Dave Patrick Ultimate together and used a Saito 150 on it mounted inverted. It's giving us fits trying to get it running right. I think we have tried about everything. Changes in tank elevation, new OS 4 stroke plug, prop sizes, low speed settings, high speed settings, but we can't get it to either stay running or run right.
Can someone tell me what else I can try ? I'd really appreciate it.
Wally
#3243
Senior Member
My Feedback: (32)
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Cottonwood,
AZ
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
There are a series of test you can perform to find the problem. Check your fuel lines to see if there are any cracks or holes in the line. Check your tank to see if there is a minut leake around the Gasket. turn the plane upside down so that the engine is upright to see if that makes a differance. If it does,you are not getting the proper fuel flow. If none of the above works, Close your low idle mixture control. Useing a fuel line that is new, cut off enough so that you can blow thru the line while it is attached to the carburator intake and with the proper screw driver size while blowing thru the line, open the idle screw just enough where you can hear the air coming thru the carburator. That would be the start for adjusting the low idle. If you are useing a remote fuel filler, make sure it is working properly by forcing fuel thru it as if it was attached to the fuel lines. some times the fuel filler plunger will stick therefore not allowing the proper fuel flow. check your rich mixture contole valve to see if it is leaking. It is possible that the O ring is not seating properly. Check your valve clearances. Check your carburator mounts to make sure they are secured properly. Are you useing the proper fuel and is the fuel fresh? Also use the O.S. F glow plug or the recommended plug from the factory. If this is not a new engine, is it possible that the carburator is dirty?. It also sounds like the timing may be off a little if the cam has been removed. hope this helps.
Ron
Ron
#3244
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Lystrup, DENMARK
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
What is a "normal" flying weight for a pattern F3A model with the Saito-100 in it ??
I have a weight / motor power issue on a TWM Groovy 90 F3A and a Saito-100. The plane is way to tail heavy. Is the engine to small for the plane ???
I have a weight / motor power issue on a TWM Groovy 90 F3A and a Saito-100. The plane is way to tail heavy. Is the engine to small for the plane ???
#3245
![](/forum/images/badges/premium_member.png)
My Feedback: (6)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Islamorada,
FL
Posts: 1,161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hi William Robinson,
Thanks for all the advice, my 150 seems to be running and starting better as it gets broken in. I forgot to pre oil it though before I started it [:@]
I need a smaller engine for another plane, it will either be a Saito 56 , a 72, or 82... The weight is very close to the same for these 3 engines
Aside from the power, how do these engines compare in durability, reliability etc ??? More power is always better, but I want one that will run without quitting (most reliable), and handle the occasional minor crash, which one do you recommend ?
JettPilot
Thanks for all the advice, my 150 seems to be running and starting better as it gets broken in. I forgot to pre oil it though before I started it [:@]
I need a smaller engine for another plane, it will either be a Saito 56 , a 72, or 82... The weight is very close to the same for these 3 engines
![Big Grin](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
JettPilot
#3246
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Mary Esther, Florida, FL
Posts: 20,205
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
13 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Christian:
Nominal weight for a sport plane with the FA-100 is 4.5 kg. This power loading gives good performance without being "Too hot." The engine will fly a heavier plane, and do it well, but the 4.5 kg weight seems to be just about ideal.
Bill.
Nominal weight for a sport plane with the FA-100 is 4.5 kg. This power loading gives good performance without being "Too hot." The engine will fly a heavier plane, and do it well, but the 4.5 kg weight seems to be just about ideal.
Bill.
#3247
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Mary Esther, Florida, FL
Posts: 20,205
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
13 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Jett:
The Saito FA-56 is a good reliable engine, lightly stressed, it will run forever with minimum maintenance.
The FA-72 seems to have been a development engine for the FA-82, it has some quirks. Not the least is the tendency to destroy the upper o-ring seal on the intake pipe. The engine now comes with spare o-rings included for this reason. It can be avoided by strapping the pipe to the cylinder - this prevents the vibration that causes the failure.
The FA-82 is the "Developed" version of the 72. It does not have the intake leakage problem of the FA-72, and it is naturally, the most powerful of the three. As such, it also has the shortest bearing life of the three even though life is still good if the engine is cared for properly.
So. If the FA-56 is strong enough for your plane it's the sensible one to get.
I'd go for the FA-82 anyway. Who said we had to be sensible?
Bill.
The Saito FA-56 is a good reliable engine, lightly stressed, it will run forever with minimum maintenance.
The FA-72 seems to have been a development engine for the FA-82, it has some quirks. Not the least is the tendency to destroy the upper o-ring seal on the intake pipe. The engine now comes with spare o-rings included for this reason. It can be avoided by strapping the pipe to the cylinder - this prevents the vibration that causes the failure.
The FA-82 is the "Developed" version of the 72. It does not have the intake leakage problem of the FA-72, and it is naturally, the most powerful of the three. As such, it also has the shortest bearing life of the three even though life is still good if the engine is cared for properly.
So. If the FA-56 is strong enough for your plane it's the sensible one to get.
I'd go for the FA-82 anyway. Who said we had to be sensible?
Bill.
#3248
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Lystrup, DENMARK
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
ORIGINAL: William Robison
Christian:
Nominal weight for a sport plane with the FA-100 is 4.5 kg. This power loading gives good performance without being "Too hot." The engine will fly a heavier plane, and do it well, but the 4.5 kg weight seems to be just about ideal.
Bill.
Christian:
Nominal weight for a sport plane with the FA-100 is 4.5 kg. This power loading gives good performance without being "Too hot." The engine will fly a heavier plane, and do it well, but the 4.5 kg weight seems to be just about ideal.
Bill.
My flying wieght is 3800 gram, but then I have a serious CG problem, its tail-heavy. Others use engines with approx. 750 grams weight in this model.
Then I just have a CG problem in the model. I have to think about what I can do with the weight issue. With the extra 600 gram up front, it stays on the estimated CG. But 600 gram is a lot just to get the CG right.
#3249
![](/forum/images/badges/premium_member.png)
My Feedback: (6)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Islamorada,
FL
Posts: 1,161
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks for the info, given what you said, it will be between the .56 and the .82
The engine is for a plane with a camera on it, is there a big difference between the vibration levels between the two ? Also reliability in all throttle settings is important, is the 82 more likely to quit being run at idle and very low power settings alot ?
JettPilot
The engine is for a plane with a camera on it, is there a big difference between the vibration levels between the two ? Also reliability in all throttle settings is important, is the 82 more likely to quit being run at idle and very low power settings alot ?
JettPilot
#3250
Junior Member
My Feedback: (8)
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Hackettstown,
NJ
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Hey Ron
Thanks for taking the time. I'll try all of those things and let you know how I make out. So in your opinion, do Saitos run well inverted?
I'm getting mixed reviews on that. Also, if all else fails, what do you think about the Cline regulators ?
Wally
Thanks for taking the time. I'll try all of those things and let you know how I make out. So in your opinion, do Saitos run well inverted?
I'm getting mixed reviews on that. Also, if all else fails, what do you think about the Cline regulators ?
Wally