Seagull Gee Bee Z
11-17-2009, 03:24 PM
#176
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RE: Seagull Gee Bee Z
The wheel pants are simply screwed and glued. One half of the pant has plywood glued to it so that it is secured with strap and screws. Its mate is then glued in place.
11-17-2009, 04:30 PM
#177
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RE: Seagull Gee Bee Z
I made up some small blocks of ply and glued them to the inside of the pants so I could use screws to hold them together rather than glueing them, you can bet the time will come when you want to get at those struts or split those pants for some reason !!.
11-17-2009, 08:43 PM
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RE: Seagull Gee Bee Z
One more thing I did with them that you might want to consider I put some thin Black adhesive foam on the foot of each wheel pant ( where the pant meets the wing surface ) , it fills any gaps between the two ,but more importantly it also gives alittle bit of play/flex between the two so if your leg/strut is bent back alittle on a not so perfect landing the pant will move as well with out cracking /damaging it.
Seems to work well as I have no cracks chipping of paint etc and she has nosed over once on take off at full noise & only suffered a few easily fixed scratches on the cowl & rudder.
Cheers Steff.
Seems to work well as I have no cracks chipping of paint etc and she has nosed over once on take off at full noise & only suffered a few easily fixed scratches on the cowl & rudder.
Cheers Steff.
11-17-2009, 09:04 PM
#181
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RE: Seagull Gee Bee Z
The reason it is hard to loosen is because there are 2 small set screws. Loosen them up 1st before loosening up the 4mm screw. The gear is not real strong aluminum, mine bent on one particular hard landing. I am thinking about using jb weld to keep the U from moving.
R/C Foolish
R/C Foolish
11-19-2009, 04:55 PM
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RE: Seagull Gee Bee Z
Hallo guys!
It is nice to see the same interrest! I am preparing "Z" for next season too and is good to read some advices. I have "Y" by PacAero and it is best plane I ever had. (see video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGW8TIcX5Zg ) So I am curious what Zee can do...
Have fun!
Ondrej, Czech republic
home site
www.modelranch.cz
It is nice to see the same interrest! I am preparing "Z" for next season too and is good to read some advices. I have "Y" by PacAero and it is best plane I ever had. (see video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGW8TIcX5Zg ) So I am curious what Zee can do
...Have fun!
Ondrej, Czech republic
home site
www.modelranch.cz
11-22-2009, 08:11 AM
#189
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RE: Seagull Gee Bee Z
I am not home this weekend, will take pictures next week. I made functional flying wires and reinforced fiberglass and attatched to each side of wheel pants and wing. Then I adjust to keep the pants centered on the wheels. It eliminated any side to side movement of the pants and keeps the wheels from touching. Also use a dremel and make the openings much bigger for your wheels. I am using dubro 4-1/2" instead of the cheap foam wheels that came with the kit.
R/C Foolish
R/C Foolish
11-22-2009, 02:48 PM
#190
RE: Seagull Gee Bee Z
The position mine are in will cut into the fiberglass pant sooner or later....probably sooner - going to redo them once I see your pics. Can't believe the 'stock' configuration would last - only three screws holding all that glass - out in the slipstream, then bouncing on the runway - no way!
11-25-2009, 08:33 PM
#191
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RE: Seagull Gee Bee Z
I glassed brass fuel tube on the inside of the two slots on each wheel pant then ran the cable pulling on each side . I would suggest not flyning the plane until you do that and replace the wheels. I have a 26cc zenoah on mine and when i landed it was like putting on brakes, nosed over . That was the second flight ,first one I listened to someone at the local field and increased elev throws. not a good move! After rebuilding the first 4 inches of the fuselage back to the first former . reglassing one of the wheel pants and cowl I tried it again It flies much better.
11-26-2009, 01:20 PM
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RE: Seagull Gee Bee Z
I am using the Dubro 4-1/2" lite wheels, nice and solid on landing. Sorry for the delay in my pictures, hopefully I will get them on this weekend.
R/C Foolish
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11-27-2009, 12:24 AM
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RE: Seagull Gee Bee Z
Happy Thanksgiving to all. Place decals on the Z prior to dinner. I am delighted with the MLD-28 engine. I have ran several tanks through her now and she is cranking out the power. The Z is currently weighing in at 11.0 pounds (no wheel pants). I place ignition and ignition battery on the firewall battery plank (ignition underneath and battery on top) and CG is perfect per recommendation.
Pict 1 shows the Tru-turn hub
Pict 3 shows the the small aft-landing gear wire re-attached with steel wire with copper wire and solder on top. I found that the aft- landing gear wire had broke during engine break-in.
Pict 5 shows red wire used to simulate the spark plug wires to cylinders.
Pict 7 show re-enforce aft-landing gear wire on left side.
Pict 8 denotes two charging jacks in front and two switches aft to ignition and receiver batteries.
[img][/img]
Pict 1 shows the Tru-turn hub
Pict 3 shows the the small aft-landing gear wire re-attached with steel wire with copper wire and solder on top. I found that the aft- landing gear wire had broke during engine break-in.
Pict 5 shows red wire used to simulate the spark plug wires to cylinders.
Pict 7 show re-enforce aft-landing gear wire on left side.
Pict 8 denotes two charging jacks in front and two switches aft to ignition and receiver batteries.
[img][/img]
11-28-2009, 06:45 AM
#196
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RE: Seagull Gee Bee Z
Looking good RevGQ !!.
Tailskid I cut a groove into my struts that the rear brace wire fitted into then used a hose clamp to lock it into postion,
the advantage of the hose clamp is you can get them real ! tight ,no movement at all , then for the bracing wires I used one peice & ran it from the inside post
through the pant wrapped it around the hose clamp then out to the other post.I attached the wire to the turnbuckles using the supplied clamp from the kit.
I use thread lock to lock up the turnbuckles , it holds them tight but is easliy undone if tightening is required.
Cheers Steff.
Tailskid I cut a groove into my struts that the rear brace wire fitted into then used a hose clamp to lock it into postion,
the advantage of the hose clamp is you can get them real ! tight ,no movement at all , then for the bracing wires I used one peice & ran it from the inside post
through the pant wrapped it around the hose clamp then out to the other post.I attached the wire to the turnbuckles using the supplied clamp from the kit.
I use thread lock to lock up the turnbuckles , it holds them tight but is easliy undone if tightening is required.
Cheers Steff.
12-12-2009, 05:34 PM
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RE: Seagull Gee Bee Z
Had a temporary glitch with MLD-28 engine. I would start engine and immediately loose binding to Airtronics RD8000 2.4 GHZ receiver.
After some research here at rcuniverse, I discovered that the plug boot was the primary culprit. Some were suggesting placing a clamp on the boot to keep it stable.
I on the other hand, connected the boot to the plug, then soldered some copper mesh to side of boot in such a way that the mesh would contact the engine head and thereby making a ground.
I then wrapped the boot with a single strand of copper wire, then soldered the wire to the boot the whole way round.
It appears the mods are working great. I ran engine using a Zinger 17x8 prop, tuned the engine adjusting the low-end needle lean until it stopped 4-cycling on the low end. The engined tached at 8200 rpm on the top and 2000 at the bottom. To date, I have run no more than four tanks of fuel. The first three tanks were done with a 30:1 mix of Royal purple. The last was run on a mix of Royal Purple at 90:1.
Here are some picts of the mods to the boot.
[img][/img]
[img][/img]
After some research here at rcuniverse, I discovered that the plug boot was the primary culprit. Some were suggesting placing a clamp on the boot to keep it stable.
I on the other hand, connected the boot to the plug, then soldered some copper mesh to side of boot in such a way that the mesh would contact the engine head and thereby making a ground.
I then wrapped the boot with a single strand of copper wire, then soldered the wire to the boot the whole way round.
It appears the mods are working great. I ran engine using a Zinger 17x8 prop, tuned the engine adjusting the low-end needle lean until it stopped 4-cycling on the low end. The engined tached at 8200 rpm on the top and 2000 at the bottom. To date, I have run no more than four tanks of fuel. The first three tanks were done with a 30:1 mix of Royal purple. The last was run on a mix of Royal Purple at 90:1.
Here are some picts of the mods to the boot.
[img][/img]
[img][/img]