lomcevac540T

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Sounds like a plan to me.

maneba

I'll use blind nuts on the inside of the five arms of the wood ring to avoid stripping.

maneba

I've completed the wing.
Next step will be the installation of the engine.

maneba

I'm thinking to buy a dummy engine.
Williams Brothers 1/6 should be perfect. Diameter: 8" (203.2mm)
What do you think about?

clockguypete

Looks very nice, I especially like how you make a custom stand for your models, and nice storage idea! Very neat and professional looking Stephano. Pete

clockguypete

The willams brothers dummy engine looks much more realistic that what comes with the kit, that's for sure. But, I think with your skills you should just custom machine your own your own scale working radial engine, and drop that in the nose of this baby! hehehehe

maneba

I've setup the engine mount and the engine, but this forum has problem loading images...

So i've to link them from another source.

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

I like your "working" stand....I use those foam Robart units and they keep breaking/regluing them/breaking somewhere else...etc.

lomcevac540T

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I got my cowling tack glued to the cowl ring and I think it is going to work pretty good. Plan to glass it together tonight and make it permanent. Sure cleans up the outside of the cowl with no mounting bolts protruding.
I have changed my mind and installed a Mintor 33cc instead of the 22cc. The engine fits completely inside the cowl with only a cut for the exhaust pipe. Should be plenty of power. I decided to do this because the weight of the 33cc is the same as a 180 four stroke and I didn't want to have to add weight with the 22cc. Plus... these things were supposed to be racers right?

clockguypete

Makes perfect sense to me :-). That's why we have a throttle stick, to fly scale or tear up the sky!

maneba

Please check your version of Mintor. Is it from a new batch of engines or is it an old version? Here in Italy (where Mintor builts their engines) there was been a lot of non conformity regarding the bearing between the cranckshaft and the piston rod. A friend of mine discover a play in the piston rod and sent it back to the factory. They have replaced the bearings, the piston rod, and the piston.
Now there is the "New Mintor" established with a new associate.
Hope your motor is a good one or maybe you should contact your vendor.

IMHO
DLE 30 are more reliable, less expensive and you can find replacement parts everywhere ( i own two DLE 30 ).
Or if you can afford the price, OS GT 33 is the best.

maneba

Today i've installed an Ohio large tail wheel. Myabe the large version is a little big!



I don't know where to istall the gas servo.
Maybe i'll put it in the wood engine mount. I'll cut an hole in the engine mount.

clockguypete

I purchased the exact tail wheel for mine. I think the size is fine, and will hold up better if you happen to do a three point landing! In several online video's I watched of this plane, the stock tail wheel looked like it was leaning over at an angle, so I figured it was a little to weak for this planes weight. In reference to your throttle servo, it would be nice if you could route a pushrod back through the fire wall so the sevo could be mounted away from the engine vibration. I can't see by the photo if you perhaps just don't have the proper angle to do that? Sometimes a steel cable is used inside a housing, where the routing has to be done around a curve, to get the angle right. A clevis can be soldered on where it meets the engine throttle arm.

maneba

I don't know! Or i'll use a nylon bowden to get the proper angle but in this case i've to put an uniball on the gas arm or i'll put the servo into the engine mount. A twin boxer shouldn't have a lot of vibrations.

clockguypete

Lots of choices! Well I know you will find a clever way to do it. This is part of the fun and challenge of out hobby. That twin boxer is going to sound sweet flying by. We call boxers (four strokes) here in the states.

maneba

It's impossible to continue on RCU with this server problem. I'll continue the discussion on RCgroups here [link=http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1612907&page=2#post24428416]Gee bee Z[/link]

tailskid

My Feedback: (34)

I'll follow you.....

lomcevac540T

My Feedback: (1)

What type spinner do you guys plan to use?

clockguypete

I ordered an aluminum hub from Tru-Turn, to fit my Saito 1.80 FS cost 64.00 shipped, but looks nice. The original Gee Bee had a very small hub The one from tru turn is a little larger than a scale version, but it fits over the double jam prop nut. http://www.truturn.com/cgi-bin/store...exact_match=on

lomcevac540T

My Feedback: (1)

Hope this RCU problem is fixed now...

maneba

ALLELUIA! server problem seems solved.

This is the new cowl ring. Also called "Magneto"
Four magnet on the ring and on the firewall.
Four pivots on the cowl ring and four holes in the firewall.
It's very strong and firm.
Maybe, next time i'll do another with the magnets near the pivots.

maneba

I've ordered the same for my FT-160, but for my other HK Gee Bee i ordered this Great Planes super stearman 1.20 spinner. It looks very good with an huge cowl like that.

mbgbe696

After installing the wing to strut wires and fitting the wing intake fairing on the bottom of the wing , I noticed the wires are rubbing on the fairing , the 2 wires that go between the pants. What have any body done to prevent this if any? Any comments.

clockguypete

This is how the full size struts were done, so now to decide if we change the arf to match?

maneba

In my Gee bee, one inner cable touch the fairing and it's slightly bent for about 3/64 of an inch. I think that it's not a problem.