Bob dunlop

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The bolt going into the strut and around the bolt head and the Z shaped wire going into the strut on the other end and all the set screws and stuff...basically every where just to make the strut one solid unit.

clockguypete

Yes I plan to file flats on the upper Z shaped landing gear and lock that into the strut well. My custom bracket attaches to the part of the strut that does not move! This way the lower portion telescoping can move up and down freely and do no harm. The bracket serves two purposes, one to keep pant from moving sideways into wheel, and hardware to attach wires easily to give side support to stationary part of strut . Hope this makes sense. I will post photo's when I get one side made. I just finished three hours of iorning out wrinkles on every part of this plane, and now hinging the control surfaces.

mbgbe696

So you used jb weld like threadlock on the screw and set screws?

Bob dunlop

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Please don't misunderstand me guys...not trying to tell anybody how to build thier plane...this is just what I've seen work and will be building mine this way.
We got the idea from the article mentioned above a couple years ago....I was just really hoping that Horizon and Seagull would have fixed this issue of the struts twisting around...the struts seem to be plenty strong and would probably only bend from a horrible landing or crash which would of course do more damage than just the struts anyway.

Bob dunlop

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Yep..everywhere to make it a solid unit

clockguypete

Sure Bob, the JB weld is a good idea, I read the entire thread several times and remembered that tip. I don't understand why someone would attach the flying wires to the lower part of the strut that moves up and down on the spring. The wires attach to the lower end of the stationary part of the strut assy. After looking at the seagull instructions and parts however, I see the problem that is causing confusion. They cut the oval openings in the wrong place , and show connecting wires down by the fork! Wrong, I will have to make new openings up higher in the wheel pant to be able to connect wires to the middle of the strut that does not move! Hmmmm will try and cover original oval openings with some yellow covering maybe!

mbgbe696

believe me I want to do whatever will work, I have already welded a large area washer to the bolt haed and secured it to the forks by screws( photo shown om page 19) but have not done anything else yet, thats why i'm asking . If some of your club members jb welded the screw threads and set screws then I want to look at this real good. thanks for your info

Bob dunlop

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Yea...I saw guys wrapping the wire around the forks...
LOL

Bob dunlop

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JB welding everything solid was just kind of a last ditch effort....but it seemed to be the trick.

clockguypete

See my edited post above Bob.......figured out why that was happening;-). This hole should have been higher so you could attach wires here!

Bob dunlop

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That should work fine...I just don't want to turn this part of the build into a project...the project I'm more intrested in is removing the pilot and replacing him with one from the period and building a semi-scale cockpit,flying wire on top of the wing as well as flying wire and struts on the tail feathers and tail skid and all that kinda stuff

clockguypete

I hear ya, the pilot looks like he belongs in a modern day Cessna or something! I too am thinking of a vintage full leather cap and goggles pilot like Lowell Bayles wore when he flew this original plane. Have you seen the video of the Gee Bee crash in 1931? It gives a close look at the plane being rolled out of the hanger, and Lowell's flying gear. Found one at Williams Brothers site. I purchased some extra flying wires to try and add them all over to be more scale looking. I am going to skip the tail skid, since I fly off a grass field, and the full scale replica video's I've watched show they now use a wheel behind. I am installing an Ohio Superstar tail wheel assy instead of the chunky nylon one included. I also plan to paint the dummy radial engine parts to look more realistic. I thought about building pockets to recess the aileron servos, but really don't want to mess around cutting into the wing. Going to put my fuel filler right up top where the original gas cap was though.

Bob dunlop

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Sounds good Pete...I fly almost all WW1 planes and prefer tail skids on our grass field ...one nice thing about skids is they are real light which is key on tail heavy WW1 birds

clockguypete

Oh that's interesting, so skids work ok? Did not know that, nice. So jumping into a Gee bee is a real change in flying style for you! What engine are you going with?

Bob dunlop

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Yea..skids really only work well on grass...this will definataly be a different style from all my other planes that I have right now.
Ive flown the Seagull Gee Bee and it's a nice flyer ...piece of cake
Motor will be an E-Flite Power 160 on 10s ...it oughta really haul the mail

clockguypete

I have 4 electric powered planes, they work well, but I still enjoy working with the fuel engines, and enjoy the sound of a four stroke cruising by. I flew my cub all winter with snow ski's, and it was fun. With my electrics, I get 2 or 3 flights then have to start recharging batteries. I can fly my cub with a 70 4stroke ten or more times without the need to charge anything. I guess I like a little of both. Expense wise I found out sometimes the electric costs even more initially to build. You save on fuel costs, but still have to replace batteries every two years or so. Pro's and con's I suppose.

lomcevac540T

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I took my struts apart last night and noticed that they have made some great improvements to them. They are nothing like the ones I see in the beginning of this forum. So I ground flats for all three set screws at the base of the strut, loaded it upo with Loc-Tite 609 bearing reataining compound, then done the same with the cap screw on the wheel end of the strut. There should be no way for this to slip or turn.
Started leaning toward hooking the flying wires to the pants. Decisions, decisions...

maneba

Are you Sure about the 160? It seems to me a little overpowered. I was thinking about an electric combo for this plane and the E-Flite Power 110 should be the perfect match at 8S. Plenty of power. The 160 at 10S is a little monster and the whole system is heavier.


Too much decision for me and no time to try everything.

I have also this baby ready, but i don't know what to choose. The ASP 180 seems too powerfull for this airframe. Maybe electrict? mumble mumble.

[link=http://i361.photobucket.com/albums/oo60/Maneba/areografie/cazzi%20miei/ESM%20Corsair/DSCN6809.jpg]OS FT-160[/link]

Bob dunlop

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Sounds good...intrested in seeing if the Loctite holds ...will you be able to unscrew the set screws and bolt at a later date or is it permanent like JB weld? ....only problem with JB weld is that it is permanent .

maneba

Hey Pete! Look the movie in 1080 HD and fullscreen at 0,15 min. The flying wires are there.

Bob dunlop

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A little over powered?...absolutily !
Just a little heavier setup than the 110 and 8s but this plane handles the weight just fine and needs allot of weight up front to balance properly ....also the 160 has a lower Kv and with 10s means more voltage which at the end of the day means less amps required to fly the plane in a scale manner which means longer flight time ....or ballistic speeds!
Anyway...I just happen to have the 160 and 10s packs laying around

lomcevac540T

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You can use a little heat and remove it if you need to. It is supposed to be a bearing retainer I have used if a bearing is a little loose. Has worked pretty good before so I will let you know if I have any issues.

lomcevac540T

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The 160 twin would be my choice! I have always wanted a twin four stroke, they sound great!

Bob dunlop

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The twin 160 is going to sound and perform great!
I love the sound of 4 strokes

Bob dunlop

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I try and use packs large enough packs that I can fly about 8-9 minutes and still have about 50% left in the pack so I can put it right back on the charger and be ready in 12-15 minutes.
I charge at 6c on packs that are rated at 8c and only charge up to 95%...the last 5% takes forever because it is really only balancing those last few thousandths of a volt and doesn't really equate to any extra flying time.
I have some packs that are about 4 years old and still perform just like brand new.
End result...I really only have one pack per plane ( keeps cost down) and with 2 planes at the field I can almost fly back to back all day....althought that rarely happens as I prefer to sit around and BS most of the day
No fuss no muss and cheap flying!